Hello!
A few years ago, the house was extra insulated with a facade board, I think it's 80mm thick, with battens and then paneling on top. Now we're planning to add a porch roof and I'm unsure how to support it. If I screw a support beam to the wall that's 45mm, I'll only reach 40mm into the old outer wall and probably have a high "breaking load."
How do you solve this? Would it work to use a lot of long screws? Alternatively, does it work without a support beam by using angle irons directly against the facade? Or, as a last option due to appearance, have posts to support the roof's support beam?
//Rickard
A few years ago, the house was extra insulated with a facade board, I think it's 80mm thick, with battens and then paneling on top. Now we're planning to add a porch roof and I'm unsure how to support it. If I screw a support beam to the wall that's 45mm, I'll only reach 40mm into the old outer wall and probably have a high "breaking load."
How do you solve this? Would it work to use a lot of long screws? Alternatively, does it work without a support beam by using angle irons directly against the facade? Or, as a last option due to appearance, have posts to support the roof's support beam?
//Rickard
Agree that it sounds risky to hang the ceiling on a panel that is "suspended" like that, with long screws through the insulation.
Perhaps some vertical posts that are screwed to the wall, but whose weight is supported by the deck foundation?
The load-bearing beam can then rest on the posts.
You are taking the roof's weight into account in the deck's "foundation", right?
Perhaps some vertical posts that are screwed to the wall, but whose weight is supported by the deck foundation?
The load-bearing beam can then rest on the posts.
You are taking the roof's weight into account in the deck's "foundation", right?
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· Stockholms Län
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I don't know the answer.
But!
Are the stud battens on plastic spacers through the facade panels? In that case, you might compress these quite a bit, I assume, if you draw a ledger beam outside with hefty screws. Also, it's difficult to hit the battens somewhere deep inside the wall behind the panels.
And as mentioned, the screws end up hanging in the air and could break.
If I were in your position, I would probably consider:
Alternatively:
Consider if it would be possible to place piers and posts close to the wall.
Do a Google image search on ledger beam, and you might find something.
But!
Are the stud battens on plastic spacers through the facade panels? In that case, you might compress these quite a bit, I assume, if you draw a ledger beam outside with hefty screws. Also, it's difficult to hit the battens somewhere deep inside the wall behind the panels.
And as mentioned, the screws end up hanging in the air and could break.
If I were in your position, I would probably consider:
- Drawing the ledger beam on the wall.
- Renting a plunge saw and removing the panel along the lines.
- Thinking, swearing, breaking down, and then coming up with a solution on how to get both insulation and studs in to attach the flashing (maybe cutting another slit and widening the hole).
- Inserting some ledger beams in thickness (to reach the level of the wall) or extending the standing studs in the wall so you can attach the ledger beam there (level with the panel).
- Placing a drip edge under the ledger beam if water or condensation could run down and end up on the wall.
- This is roughly how I imagine it looks from the outside.
Alternatively:
Consider if it would be possible to place piers and posts close to the wall.
Do a Google image search on ledger beam, and you might find something.
Last edited:
Thank you for your answers, as expected, unfortunately, there is no simple and neat solution.
Worth noting is that behind the additional insulation, there is a timber frame, so it shouldn’t be too much trouble to find a "load-bearing" wall behind the insulation. Today's support beam for the deck floor is only on a plinth and is level with the bottom edge of the facade.
If the porch roof is to be 6m against the house wall and I place a post at each end and try some fixing in the middle? I would like to have a "screw" like a threaded rod that can be drawn through the support beam and into the timber wall, which I can then tighten with a nut. Not a structural engineer, but that should stabilize things decently along with a glulam beam?
The alternative with a plunge saw is also a journey; if you saw through the battens, you might need to be prepared for the whole wall to shift, which I’m afraid of. I also don’t know if it will be stable to place 3-4 pcs 2" on top of each other?
//Rickard
Worth noting is that behind the additional insulation, there is a timber frame, so it shouldn’t be too much trouble to find a "load-bearing" wall behind the insulation. Today's support beam for the deck floor is only on a plinth and is level with the bottom edge of the facade.
If the porch roof is to be 6m against the house wall and I place a post at each end and try some fixing in the middle? I would like to have a "screw" like a threaded rod that can be drawn through the support beam and into the timber wall, which I can then tighten with a nut. Not a structural engineer, but that should stabilize things decently along with a glulam beam?
The alternative with a plunge saw is also a journey; if you saw through the battens, you might need to be prepared for the whole wall to shift, which I’m afraid of. I also don’t know if it will be stable to place 3-4 pcs 2" on top of each other?
//Rickard
It is not necessary to attach the rear beam to the wall, size up the gable beams and let the rear beam rest on them.