Hello there
Can you/may you attach roof joists for the patio roof, which usually rests on an inner beam against the wall, directly to the existing roof truss, parallel to the truss, and screw right in?
See picture.
We're talking about a glulam beam 56x225 with a span from the roof truss to the front post of about 3100 mm.
This would help enormously if it worked and if one is allowed to do so.
FYI... The previous canopy roof had something like 45x120 as roof joists, which were ONLY attached to the front board that has been removed in the picture. When I tore it down, I wondered how the heck it has held up for 25 years. Feel free to see the picture for comparison.
Then my solution is overkill.
Can you/may you attach roof joists for the patio roof, which usually rests on an inner beam against the wall, directly to the existing roof truss, parallel to the truss, and screw right in?
See picture.
We're talking about a glulam beam 56x225 with a span from the roof truss to the front post of about 3100 mm.
This would help enormously if it worked and if one is allowed to do so.
FYI... The previous canopy roof had something like 45x120 as roof joists, which were ONLY attached to the front board that has been removed in the picture. When I tore it down, I wondered how the heck it has held up for 25 years. Feel free to see the picture for comparison.
Then my solution is overkill.
Yes, it's going from 15 square meters to about 23. Then there will be sliding sections at the bottom.Ulltand said:
Cc1200 on the rafters, and thus the deck roof will have the same.
The reason I want to attach it this way is so that I don't have to remove the roof tiles and so on, and attach it at the top.
I have about a centimeter in height margin to maintain a 4-degree slope on the roof right now.
I think so too but wanted to check with someone who might have done it this way before. Well, the house is normal-sized, 90 sqm base area, 1.5 stories with a 38-degree roof slope. Snow zone 2.5
Therefore, 56x225 roof rafter is what I have in mind.
Are you going to have a 1200 mm c/c distance between the glulam beams of the patio roof? Should the patio roof be insulated? Where on the truss's high leg did you plan to splice the glulam beam?
Yes, that's correct, 1200cc. The patio roof will be 32mm multiwall polycarbonate. As it looks now from Expodul. I was thinking of attaching the patio roof's roof beam just like in the picture. 4 screws straight into the rafter with a 4-degree slope.J justusandersson said:
There will be good durability. You can increase the number of attachment points in the existing roof trusses somewhat - for example, four screws as you planned plus two through bolts with washers and nuts.
A four-degree slope is on the low side. It probably requires a special sheet metal (under the gutter) to prevent the roof water from backflowing.
A four-degree slope is on the low side. It probably requires a special sheet metal (under the gutter) to prevent the roof water from backflowing.
There will be an additional load of 5-6 kN (500-600 kg) at the given point. It is not negligible, but should be fine considering you probably have a truss with support legs. Consider snow guards. You cannot walk on a polycarbonate roof and shovel snow.
I agree. The roof truss doesn't get an increased load on any critical point. It's how the wall can handle the increased load and there should be a good margin there.S Spikrätaren said:
It will be around 7.5 kN in each roof truss position.
If there is an insane amount of snow, you can always shovel
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Excellent, then I'll keep sketching further. But am I not right that the roof batten should extend all the way to the wall?Agree. The truss doesn't receive increased load on any critical point. It's about how the wall can handle the increased load, and there should be a good margin.
It will be around 7.5 kN in each truss position.
If there's an insane amount of snow, you can always shovel it
