Hi,

I have managed to remove all the wallpaper in all the rooms and plan to cover with renovation gypsum to get a nice and smooth surface. The walls are made of lightweight concrete and regular concrete with a layer of putty from before.

How do I attach the boards most easily? I've read a bit here and there that you should use plaster mortar to attach to the concrete wall and tile adhesive on the lightweight concrete.

Is there a risk of moisture problems if I attach the board to the exterior walls? All exterior walls are made of concrete?
 
Exterior wall in the basement is a big no no, above ground it should work. Use gypsum mortar http://www.bauhaus.se/gipsbruk-25-kg.html
Click on and spread with a 10 notched trowel. It sticks rock hard, but it requires that the walls do not bulge out/in because the gypsum mortar will then come off. If so, it is better with 13 mm gypsum board which is a bit stiffer, then you can "straighten" the wall.
 
This is about an apartment located half a floor up. I haven't noticed any bulging in the wall. What is classified as too much in and out bulging?
Per_2014 said:
Exterior wall in the basement is a big no no, above ground it should work. Use gipsbruk [link]
Click on and spread out with the number 10 notched trowel. It sits rock-hard, but it requires that the walls do not bulge out/in because the gipsbruk will then come off. In that case, it's better with 13 mm gips which is a bit stiffer, then you can "straighten" the wall.
 
Lay a long pass along the wall, it's hard to say how much is okay. You should be able to fill out 10mm with gypsum plaster without any problems. If it's more, I would apply some plaster first to even it out, let it set, and then put on the gypsum boards with gypsum plaster.
 
Mix the plaster slightly thinner than for plastering when you are going to "glue," it will make it easier. Take a dab on the spatula or trowel and flip it upside down and wiggle it a bit. If the plaster stays on without changing shape, it's good.

Try to get the board in the right place directly, it sticks firmly, and it's very difficult to remove if it goes wrong (or is the wrong size). Screw in some double gypsum screws here and there into the lightweight concrete if the boards slide down, but don't screw it in so far that the head goes into the plaster (then there will be an inward bump).
 
Typically use a straight edge that you tap with a hammer to get the wall straight when applying mortar.
 
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Stefan N said:
I usually use a straight rule that you tap on with a hammer to get the wall straight when applying mortar.
Smart, I'll remember that!
 
Isn't it better to skim coat, it can cause problems when installing sockets and switches when you build up 6 mm.
Roller applied filler and broad putty knife (at least 50 cm).
 
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