Are there any external dimensions to adhere to?

[Suhagg]

Thinking of building something similar to this and wondering if there are any dimensions for the slab or frame that are advantageous to stick to? This is not exact measurements but just a sketch.

In this floor plan, the exterior walls are 17940 because that aligns best with trusses or something similar, or why has this particular measurement been chosen? Are there any tips and tricks for stick-built construction?

Exterior wall looks like this

panel
34x70 (beveled at 15 degrees for drainage according to BH and Mikael's advice)
70mm Paroc climate block
Plastic spacer to break the thermal bridge into the frame.
standing 195 + 195mm MU
Vapor barrier plastic
horizontal 45 + 45 MU + electrical conduit and possibly water pipes.
OSB
Gypsum.

The green is a glazed conservatory, as well as a chimney and 2 stoves.
Direct link floor plan http://i39.tinypic.com/xdcsz.jpg


Exterior

 

[Tallbarr]

The measurement 17940 comes from the size of the house, the trusses are then divided on that area.

 

[JOW]

Tallbarr: I'm not sure what you mean by dividing in? I interpret it as you would depart from cc120 and take what becomes an even number downwards.

Otherwise, you can set all cc to 120cm and move the last, or first, or first and last, or if there's a chimney pipe in an inconvenient place, you can move there.

Suhagg: It depends a bit on how much you want to cost-optimize. You can choose whichever measurement you want, then adapt to it, or you can take the inner dimension of the frame that fits with cc 120 on a certain number of rafters and then adapt the floor plan accordingly.

 

[Suhagg]

Then it doesn't make much of a difference. I thought there might be reasons for the slightly odd external dimensions. This example is an FH house. I should then take the interior measurements I am satisfied with and let the external dimensions be whatever they end up being.

 

[JOW]

Yep, then you can look at the roof trusses when you're satisfied with the floor plan. You might need to adjust the internal dimensions a little...
Are you going to have a vaulted ceiling in the middle of the house? That might be a bit more critical; the trusses on either side of that roof shouldn't be too close to the outer wall of the middle section, as the roofs should meet at the eaves.

 

[JOW]

inv. dimension frame = 120 * n + 4.5
outer dimension = outer wall thickness + 120 * n + 4.5 + outer wall thickness

Where n is the number of trusses.
Then you get the truss to nail sparse paneling into.

 

[Mikael_L]

I had a lot of similar thoughts as you when I was planning our house (Not just here, but I recognize your questions all the way , and I think I answer you a lot. It always feels like "been there done that" )

I optimized the length of the house to fit exactly 9 roof truss compartments, i.e., 10 roof trusses.
You can also optimize away two more roof trusses, the outermost ones, and let the roof rest on the gable walls.
I skipped this later because I figured it would result in much more work and especially an extension of the frame's open time before getting a roof.

If you optimize the length according to the number of roof trusses, you also have to decide early on whether the roof truss should be on the façade line or just behind the interior wall. That is, decide how you want to build.

Anyway, I think you should determine the length somewhat based on the roof trusses, if possible. It's a bit silly to have to buy an extra roof truss just to reach, for example, 20 cm more.
However, I see no problem with building a house where the last truss compartment is 20 cm narrower.
But clearly, if you optimize to the last centimeters, you must really be on top of everything, so you don't end up without 2 cm of plasterboard, etc.

I would have gladly made the house 2 cm shorter if I had initially realized that I almost had a hard time nailing the sparse panel because two 5.40 pieces barely reached, or almost barely. Yes, if I had had 1 cm more nailing margin on both sides, I would have been happy.
The kitchen became 4.2 x 4.25. Now that we’re about to roll in a vinyl floor, I wonder a bit why I didn’t make the kitchen an even 4 meters on one side, so I wouldn’t have to seam the flooring.

I have no answers other than how it went for me, but these were my thoughts anyway.

 

[Mikael_L]

Otherwise, you can set all cc 120cm and move the last one, or the first one, or the first and last, or if there's a chimney pipe in an inconvenient place, you can move there.

That's actually really smart. To make the adjustment where something else would otherwise get in the way.

 

[Suhagg]

Yep, then you can look at the roof trusses when you're satisfied with the floor plan. You might need to adjust the interior dimensions a little...
Are you going to have a ridge roof in the middle of the house? It might be a bit more critical there, as the trusses on either side of that roof must not be too close to the exterior wall of the middle section; the roofs need to meet at the eaves.

Correct.
Yes, I think I understand what you mean now.

Poor picture but I think you can see. The second truss in the protruding part must fit, so to speak.

 

[andersmc]

Most materials you build with are 1200 mm wide, or some multiple of 600. It's easiest if you make the house x*1.2 meters long and then decrease it by a few decimeters. For the width, you do the same, but there you can use x*0.6 instead.

 

[Suhagg]

Most materials are 1200 mm wide, or some multiple of 600. It's easiest if you make the house x*1.2 meters long and then reduce it by a few decimeters. On the width, you'd do the same but use x*0.6 instead.

Are we talking about external or internal measurements?
The reduction by a few decimeters, but what is the function of that? Is it the thickness of the external wall that is the reason?

So my external walls will be

External Wall Construction
Lockläkt 22x45 Panel 22x145
34x70 (angled 15 degrees for drainage treated with wood preservative Boracol)
70mm Paroc climate board
Plastic spacer to break the thermal bridge into the frame.
195 + 195mm MU standing
VB plastic
45 + 45 MU lying + electrical conduit and possibly water pipes.
OSB
Gypsum

 

[JOW]

Just like in the picture, yes...
There you can also see the advantage of placing a truss on the inside of the gable peak.
Its bottom chord becomes accessible for the ceiling.
And you get uninterrupted insulation past there.

 

[andersmc]

Are we talking outer or inner dimensions? The reduction by a few decimeters, but what’s the function with that? Is it the outer wall thickness that's the reason?

Outer dimensions of the house.

The reduction is to avoid exactly what Mikael_L describes, where it turns out that the material almost suffices. It's easier to trim something that's too long than to extend something that's too short.

If you're skilled in drawing and planning, you can ensure you need exactly one sheet of exterior plasterboard and not 1.05, which is very annoying.

 

[Mikael_L]

The reduction is to avoid exactly what Mikael_L describes, that it turns out the material almost suffices. It's easier to trim something that's too long than to extend something that's too short..

I optimized the "Friggebod" foolishly.
To get the max with minimal waste, I made the wall 4.8 meters long (inside). Perfect , exactly 4 plasterboards, exactly 5 trusses, exactly 11 wall studs, etc.
Everything went well until it was time to put up the plasterboards.
It's the center-to-center distance, meaning 2.25 cm was missing from the corner, so the plasterboards couldn't meet.
curtain ...

I solved it by spacing the plasterboards a bit, so a little less was missing, then lots of spackle. A hell of a spackle job, simply put.

YES, it's definitely easier to cut away a bit and less tedious than missing a little.