Torn down old panel and chipboard and what's left is a tongue and groove wall. Placed the level and string line on it, and it's off by 1-1.5cm. Want to build with minimal new wall, and it seems unnecessary to remove the tongue and groove. Putting drywall directly feels iffy though... Alignment tips without having to add any new thick framing??

Lattice + OSB + drywall builds a bit too much since the stairs are coming
 
  • T&G wall exposed after removing old paneling, with leveling string line marked. Construction tools and floor planks visible. Renovation project in progress.
Thinking about 15mm plywood and gluing on renovation gypsum, the question is just how many screws I need to use. It's an interior wall in the hallway upstairs.
 
Align the wall by "framing" with horizontal Masonite strips or split battens behind the OSB/Plywood or gypsum board directly. That is, use different thicknesses depending on how the wall is positioned. Then screw the sheet material only to the "battens," i.e., where you have support behind.
 
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kulle
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If you have a good cleaving saw, you can cut "wedges", I've done it a few times. Attach a 45x45 and use a chalk line to create straight lines, then cleave. Start at the ceiling and floor, then the pieces in between. It requires some fiddling but ends up straight in the end, and you can make it build minimally.
 
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Ewik
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I guess we'll do as you say. But another laziness variant occurred to me. If I put in 15mm plywood screws at the top and bottom edges, then drill holes where I press in some glue/adhesive, that should stiffen the board enough, right?
 
H
When I aligned my wall, I used 22*95.
Then adjustment screw from Wurth.
I could have used 20 mm facade insulation so it would be a bit more insulated.
 
  • Wurth screws for adjustable wood construction mounting, no pre-drilling required, with instructions for use on various surfaces.
Worth mentioning, however, is that it's not always a wedge. If you look at CC60 or CC45 with the direction board, it's sometimes slightly curved in the middle, both convex and concave... so cutting out a wedge from floor to ceiling will be difficult.

Maybe you could lay the boards and "frame" them lengthwise.
 
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Trasigaskor and 1 other
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Not quite sure how the screws work?
 
H
Screw them into the stud or board.
This way, the barbs get attached.
When you unscrew, the outer part stays attached to the board.
Then they function like frame screws.
You can then pull out until the stud is level.

 
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