Hi, I have never done this before. A construction weighing approximately 20 kg (chicken coop nests) needs to be fastened to a concrete wall which appears to be made of hollow concrete blocks. It is not lightweight concrete and does not seem to be solid concrete.
I have concluded that the most sensible option is to use RF A4 threaded rod 10 mm (M10), attached with anchor adhesive. What should I consider in this context, is a 12 mm drill hole sufficient for M10? I know about thoroughly brushing the drill hole and using compressed air to clean it before applying the anchor adhesive, etc.
All tips are gratefully received.
I have concluded that the most sensible option is to use RF A4 threaded rod 10 mm (M10), attached with anchor adhesive. What should I consider in this context, is a 12 mm drill hole sufficient for M10? I know about thoroughly brushing the drill hole and using compressed air to clean it before applying the anchor adhesive, etc.
All tips are gratefully received.
Toggle bolts should work. Chemical anchors in hollow blocks are so-so.H Harald Blåtumme said:
Do you have a link to toggle bolts? Never heard of this in this context.I Installation said:
__
PS I can add that the old concrete wall is about 250-300 mm thick, hard to determine exactly. The intended drill holes will be about 140 mm deep. The embedding depth I have in mind is 120 mm, it goes through at least 2 layers in the concrete hollow brick if I understand it correctly.
Last edited:
They are called Vikbygel as an item.H Harald Blåtumme said:
Saddle clamp seems to be something for corrugated sheet metal. Unfortunately, it looks completely irrelevant, but you might have been thinking of something else.
The issue should be a standard thing, I hope people can contribute. Fastening in concrete blocks as mentioned. Tried to google it, but the best I've found is chemical anchor. A positive aspect of the solution to chemically anchor the threaded rod is that one can easily dismantle the items, not possible if you chemically anchor the screws used to fasten it.
What is the perforated plug?A atomlab said:
I'm looking at Biltema's anchor adhesive, it's applied using a caulking gun. Is there anything specific I should consider?
As mentioned, I've never done this before, very grateful for any tips on how to succeed.
__
Just to be super clear: what I'm looking to do is use a chemical anchor to secure an RF M10 threaded rod in a hole drilled in concrete hollow blocks. To fasten my construction of about 30 kg chicken nests to the concrete wall... including the chickens
Last edited:
The problem, of course, is the cavities, where neither anchor compound nor any other fastener can grip. Therefore, the effective engagement in the material is about half of the drilling depth, which you need to consider in the design. Therefore, I guess that a 10 mm rod is massively overkill in this context. Even if you were to drill straight through the wall, the block would give way long before you even approach the breaking point of a 10 mm rod.H Harald Blåtumme said:
A perforated sleeve is an absolute must with anchor compound in hollow blocks; otherwise, the compound just flows into the cavities.
The hole diameter is critical for optimal results and should be checked in the table accompanying the anchor compound. Although optimal results are hardly critical in this case.
You never set the screw with anchor compound, as it should have some pre-tension, instead you either cast in a threaded rod or anchor sleeves with internal threads.
I personally wouldn't bother with anchor compound for 20 kg but would use regular screws/plugs. Ideally, you use screws/plugs long enough to grip in several layers of the block. Add some extra screws if you're worried about strength, but 20 kg in this context isn't a weight that necessitates any special solutions.
I gratefully accept your input cpalm! I still don't know what is meant by a perforated sleeve but I guess I'll have to google it.
I have to say I've been thinking a lot about what might be sensible here and now I might come up with something reasonable and good. Maybe it's good, as you say, to just use regular universal plugs, a few extra.
An important thing in this particular application is that it should be possible to disassemble (the chicken coops in this case) without major hassle.
You write: "Ideally, you use plugs/screws that are long enough to grip multiple layers in the stone."
This is probably exactly what I need to find.
I had hoped that I could achieve a stable anchorage through at least two layers of concrete with chemical anchors, but as I said, I've never done this before, so I don't know. It would be convenient if possible, a well-anchored threaded rod like M10.
I have to say I've been thinking a lot about what might be sensible here and now I might come up with something reasonable and good. Maybe it's good, as you say, to just use regular universal plugs, a few extra.
An important thing in this particular application is that it should be possible to disassemble (the chicken coops in this case) without major hassle.
You write: "Ideally, you use plugs/screws that are long enough to grip multiple layers in the stone."
This is probably exactly what I need to find.
I had hoped that I could achieve a stable anchorage through at least two layers of concrete with chemical anchors, but as I said, I've never done this before, so I don't know. It would be convenient if possible, a well-anchored threaded rod like M10.
Last edited:
This video probably makes it a bit clearer:H Harald Blåtumme said:
The video shows approximately what I expect products like Biltema ankarmassa can do. My idea was to anchor an M10 RF threaded rod in this way, if that's done, the rest is super easy. Avoid plugs, screws, and all that, just nuts to tighten. Maybe I'm just dreaming.
Sure, go ahead with the anchoring compound if it feels best. It’s not rocket science. However, I find it difficult to see it as a simpler (or for that matter cheaper) alternative to plug + screw, considering the whole picture.
Regardless of the method, it's important to ensure that the holes are in exactly the right place. Also, the threaded rods are hard to restore, even though they make it easy to mount/dismount the items.
Regardless of the method, it's important to ensure that the holes are in exactly the right place. Also, the threaded rods are hard to restore, even though they make it easy to mount/dismount the items.
Depending on how the load will be applied (if it's hanging or pulling outward), chemical anchors might be needed. I've hung everything in the garage using only plugs, and it holds many kilos. What cpalm refers to are these https://www.k-rauta.se/produkt/perfohylsa-iov-m10-m1215x85-s94972-4pasar/6416031949722 which I agree you should use in that case.
It's used for that too. Or as a fastening for roof safety through raw wood sheathing and in larger hollow block or in hollow core slabs.H Harald Blåtumme said: