Adjustable spacer for panels against sloping studs?

[Azkel]

My friends,

I have a wall that leans, about 2cm over 240 in height. Straightening the studs would mean a lot of work. I could of course shim the existing studs on the sides with new straight studs or put a lot of small shims of varying thickness on the existing studs to level out the leaning but...

I imagine there must be something smart for this. I'm going to use OSB or chipboard, surely there should be some kind of bracket that you can both attach the board with and then "adjust" it vertically with a screw? I hope you understand what I mean.

Grateful for tips!

Regards / Azkel

 

[useless]

There will be many such attachments if the board is to be fastened to the stud every 30-60 cm. Seems like a complicated job to get straight compared to adjusting the studs.

 

[Azkel]

There will be many such mounts if the board is to be attached to the beam every 30-60 cm. Seems like a complicated job to get straight compared to adjusting the beams.

I agree, there will be quite a few as you definitely want them preferably every 30 cm. Adjusting the beams is unfortunately not an option, it would involve the facade, intermediate floor, etc. Might end up having to brace the sides anyway but I thought maybe someone had experienced this before?

// Azkel

 

[useless]

Let it lean... I have no perfectly vertical walls in my house, but you don't notice that unless you measure.

 

[Azkel]

Completely true, it's rare for walls to be completely straight. However, my OCD is haunting me here and I really want them to be straight in some way or another. I hope someone smart has figured out something wise for this.

// Azkel

 

[SBH]

place the level on all the studs and make a long wedge for each one
or you place the batten horizontally

 

[useless]

Therapy or strong numbing medication.

 

[Azkel]

I thank you for both constructive and creative suggestions. Yes, fastening horizontally and placing the boards lying down is perhaps the easiest way if I can't find an "adjustable fitting." I don't dare to attempt cutting a wedge that is 240 cm long and goes from 0 to 20mm. I think my OCD will turn into full rage in that process...

// Azkel

 

[SBH]

get yourself a table saw and it will work fine

 

[Azkel]

Have a nice ELU (table saw) but if I need to cut a wedge, I have to freehand since the fence can only give me a straight cut. Unfortunately, I doubt my ability to hold the wood straight and neat over the entire 240cm... Alternatively, I might just be a bumbling amateur...

// Azkel

 

[SBH]

you cut 120cm from one side and 120cm from the other.
if it goes a bit wrong, you just fix it either with glue or filler

 

[Kane]

I had cut some variations of blocks (0.5, 1, 1.5, and 2 cm) and taped them with double-sided tape on the battens in some suitable places and then screwed up the boards.

 

[Stefan1972]

don't you have a circular saw then? It's not much of a challenge to saw a wedge out of a two-by-four or something similar. Maybe you'll get perfect wedges if you even split a two-by-two. Then you get two wedges in one cut.

 

[Testarn]

I have a nice ELU (bench saw) but if I have to cut a wedge, I have to do it freehand since the fence can only give me a straight cut. Unfortunately, I doubt my ability to hold the timber straight and neat over the entire 240cm... Alternatively, I'm just a bungler...

// Azkel

A wedge from 0-20 mm can be cut with a circular saw with a decently fine-toothed blade (it can be done with a coarser blade too, but I find it easier with a fine-toothed one) if you just draw the line.

It can be easier to cut the wedges from a wider stud, like 45x195, or to have another stud that the circular saw can use as support on the opposite side of the cut.

Whether you have OCD or not, it doesn't need to be extremely precise since it will be behind a board.

It can be done with a table saw as well freehand, but you can create a jig where you fasten the stud at an angle and then have a straight edge to run against. Then you saw the next one against the fence and have the slanted side clear from the previous cut, and then you continue until you have enough wedges.

A circular saw/table saw has the advantage that it "wants" to run straight in a way that a jigsaw does not, so it's easier to cut straight with it.

At least I would want support on the studs along the entire length of the board, so I wouldn't use blocks, perhaps go for the option of screwing a standing stud next to the angled one and shifting the entire cc-measurement a stud width to one side. It might still require a wedge on the last stud against the corner.

I don't think there's any product like you're imagining.

 

[gnuttisch]

Essve frame sleeve?