If you screw a straight piece (2.40) onto a 2"x2" stud nett and saw with a side guide from above through the Masonite, you get a fine wedge from the stud.
destroys so much insulation thensmurfen72 said:
There's no difficulty in sawing such a wedge, with a regular circular saw, if you instead make it 10-30 or 20-40 on 2.40.Azkel said:I thank you for both constructive and creative suggestions.Yes, fastening horizontally and placing the boards sideways might be the easiest way if I don't find an "adjustable fastening." I don't dare attempt to saw a wedge that is 240 cm long and goes from 0 to 20mm. I believe my OCD will turn into full rage during the process...
// Azkel
it is possible to set niveller ruler or timber with a karmskruvsvariant.Azkel said:
Then I would attach a 32*50 on the outside of the existing studs, which also allows for a bit more insulation. Instead of shimming in between, I would drive screws with a reasonably large head into the existing stud at about 0.5-meter intervals, allowing them to stick out just enough depending on how much shimming is needed. Then mount the 32*50 flush against the screw.Azkel said:
Here is a screw that I have used a lot for exactly this method. Essve sells it as a frame screw, which it is not very good for.smurfen72 said:
http://essve.se/webcatalogue/karminfastning/1011362-karmskruv-l8-vass-spets-tra-betong/
So you use the karmskruv only as a spacer to push out the board to level, do I understand it correctly? I continue to attach the board to the stud but with another screw that I screw "past" the karmskruv?Tiofingers-Perra said:
// Azkel
No, you use the karmskruven to attach and level a stud (like 32 x 50 as smurfen72 wrote). Once that's done, you can attach the board to the newly installed and leveled stud.Azkel said:
The leveling itself works by screwing the new stud piece (32 x 50 or whatever you prefer) to the existing wall studs. Screw deeply so that the screw head goes a few millimeters into the wood. After that, you can back the screw out to position the stud properly, it's usually easy to hold a level against the stud while you adjust the screw.
Now it's not so easy to advise without any pictures, but personally, I would try to get rid of those two centimeters in another way.
Good luck!
I usually use a regular screw with a flat slightly larger head, screw it into the existing stud and let it protrude so the row of screws is plumb, then in this case, I mount a 32*50 on top with a regular screw and it also ends up level since it gets support from the screw heads. I'm not too fond of the screw linked to above, but it probably works too.
Aha, now I understand what you mean! Well, to each their own, the frame screw method mainly has the advantage of being very quick for straightening a wall. I usually start with a stud at each end of the wall, then I stretch strings between them. After that, you mount the rest of the studs using the strings as a guide. There are many other methods to straighten walls, but this is one of the absolute fastest.smurfen72 said: