Hello all knowledgeable people!

I had a leaking skylight in the upstairs bathroom. A roofer has fixed this now (installed a new sub-flashing, connecting sheets, etc.). Now it's up to me to fix the ceiling myself.

Here you see pictures of how it looked before the demolition. (styrofoam, 12 mm osb and 12 mm plasterboard).
Bathroom skylight with exposed insulation and wooden framing; new window cassette visible with black insulation affecting geometry.
Exposed wooden ceiling structure next to a window, showing beams and insulation materials in a renovated attic bathroom ceiling.

This is how it looks now:
Skylight installation with wood framing, visible insulation, and marked measurements of 20 mm and 40 mm thickness in a renovation project. Skylight window with exposed wooden framing and insulation in a bathroom ceiling, showing a renovation process before fixing the inner ceiling.

Looks a bit different, the new cassette (is that what it's called?) with black insulation disrupts the geometry a bit (I have 40 mm + 20 mm thickness to play with except near the window where there is only 20 mm).

How would you fix the ceiling?
I'm thinking battens and 40 mm insulation (better wool or styrofoam?) between the battens and then 10 mm osb + 10 mm plasterboard. Am I wrong in my thinking?
 
No one has any opinion?
 

Best answer

S
Before you build again, you need to install a vapor barrier and come up with a way to connect to the old vapor barrier. Probably, tape is the easiest way.
 
S sinuslinus said:
Before you build again, you need to install a vapor barrier and find a way to connect it to the old vapor barrier. Probably tape is the simplest way.
Ok, leave air gap too? For the rest of the ceiling in the bathroom, I see it has a vapor barrier, air gaps, and then directly gypsum without OSB.

You tape the vapor barrier to the old one down there, but how do you do it up towards the window?

Previously, there was no vapor barrier, and I suspect it was built incorrectly.
 
S
Without an air gap, there will be a hole from every screw.

You can tape against the green tape at the black.

Down against the wall, it probably won't be very optimal.

How old is the bathroom? There might not be a waterproof membrane on the wall either.
 
S sinuslinus said:
Without an air gap, there will be holes from each screw.

You can tape against the green tape at the black.

At the bottom against the wall, it may not be so optimal.

How old is the bathroom? Maybe there's no waterproofing on the wall either.
Ok, thanks.

I don't know exactly how the walls look because I haven't needed to tear anything down there. The house was built in 2010, so the bathroom was probably finished around then.
 
S sinuslinus said:
Before you build again, you need to set a vapor barrier and find a way to connect it to the old vapor barrier. Probably tape is the easiest way.
Maybe a dumb question, but should the vapor barrier be between the OSB board and the insulation or between the roof joists and the insulation? Spontaneously, I think you don't want any moist air to penetrate the insulation from the inside, but I'm a bit unsure about how you should really reason with the vapor barrier.
 
S
The vapor barrier should be on the warm side of the insulation.
 
  • Like
ilcretzzo
  • Laddar…
Click here to reply
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.