Attaching baseboard to a "crumbling" wall

[Trattkantarell]

Okay, so the renovation continues... now we're looking for tips on attaching baseboards to a wall that consists of slag blocks and plaster. When we removed the old nailed-on moldings, a lot of the wall came with it, and we've repaired those craters with husfix. Followed by applying putty, priming, and now a new floor has also been laid. So now the question is how best to attach the new baseboards to the wall. Plug and screw? If so, is there any guideline on how closely the screws should be placed, or does it depend on how much the walls bulge?
Attached is a picture of how the walls looked before the repair...

 

[Mazen]

My tip is to drill and glue in an 8 or 10mm dowel/wood plug, which you then nail the molding into. Usually, it is enough with a plug every half meter.

 

[tergo]

5.5 mm concrete drill, drill through the molding into the wall, insert a 5 mm plug, then use the baseboard screw to tap through the molding and screw

https://www.ahlsell.se/10/el-1/installationsmateriel/15-fastmateriel/plugg/1507031/

https://www.woody.se/hus-bygg/bygg/...ist-och-sockelskruv-vit-trastal-39x76mm-250st

possibly, you can test with listspik to see if it works

https://www.sekelskifte.se/product/...jwqsnDpXwpYh10lWWm212cIt0Ys6yZlgaAo5nEALw_wcB

 

[MrJay]

Glue it with tec7 or similar. If you don't care about the finish, use screws.

 

[hackatall]

There are probably as many methods as there are executors.

If you're going to paint the moldings after installation, it doesn't really matter whether you use nails or screws.

Here's how I would do it to achieve a good result:
Buy construction adhesive and apply a generous dab every half meter on the wall. Secure the molding with a few ordinary finish nails. Let it dry. If you want the molding to be pressed further against the wall by another half-cm if the wall is uneven, there are two options. Drill, plug, and screw, or fill the gap between the molding and the wall with construction adhesive. Finish by filling any screw heads, apply flexible caulk to the gaps, and final paint the molding.

This method assumes that wallpapering or painting the wall is done AFTER the moldings have been installed.

 

[Trattkantarell]

Thank you for all the answers!

Yes, the painting should be done last. Casco X-fix, could it be suitable for this purpose?
But a follow-up question on screwing, do you mean to drill for the plug through the trim? That would be quite a hole, which means you would need to screw with a record-sized screw head? It seems like it would be difficult to conceal even if you use putty? Or is there something I'm missing here?

There are probably as many methods as there are installers.

If you are painting the trims after installation, then it doesn't really matter if you use nails or screws.

Here's how I would do it to get a good result:
Buy mounting adhesive and apply a generous amount every half meter on the wall. Fix the trim with a few regular brads. Let it dry. Where you feel the trim needs to be more flush with the wall, if the wall is uneven, there are two options. Drill, plug, and screw, or fill the gap between the trim and the wall with mounting adhesive. Finish by puttying any screw heads, apply caulk to gaps, and finally paint the trim.

This method assumes that wallpapering or painting of the wall is done AFTER the trims have been installed.

 

[Raka]

Glue with Tec7 or similar.

 

[tergo]

Thanks for all the answers!

Yes, the painting should be done last. Could Casco X-fix be suitable for this purpose?
But a follow-up question on screwing, do you mean drilling for the plug through the trim? It creates quite a hole, which means you should screw with an exceptionally large screw head? I think it might be difficult to conceal even if you putty? Or is there something I've missed here?

the hole will be 5.5mm and the screw head is 7mm
https://www.woody.se/hus-bygg/bygg/...ist-och-sockelskruv-vit-trastal-39x76mm-250st

 

[hackatall]

Fill the screw holes with something that doesn't shrink when it dries; soft sealant or even elastic plastic padding works well.

Edit: the mounting glue; I usually use fix bond which is both white in color and paintable.

 

[Surgubbe]

Sounds brilliant. I have plaster on blåbetong and I hate nail plugs. I will definitely try this. How soon can I nail after I've glued in the plug? I'm using 50 mm brads from the gun.

Apologies for reviving an old thread.

My tip is to drill and glue in an 8 or 10mm dowel/wooden plug, which you then nail the molding into. Usually, one plug every half meter is sufficient.

 

[Clas Ohlson]

Låter ju genialt. Jag har puts på blåbetong och jag hatar spikplugg. Ska absolut testa detta. Hur fort kan jag spika efter jag limmat fast pluggen? Kör 50 mm dyckert ur pistol.

Ursäkta trådlyft.

Inte svårt att pricka rätt? Lite sugen på detta jag med.

 

[Surgubbe]

Inte svårt att pricka rätt? Lite sugen på detta jag med.

Jag sätter eller har satt en tejpbit vid varje plug. Höjden vet du ju. Du behöver inget lim till pluggen. I alla fall i min version av plugg och borr. Slår in dom med gummislägga och de kommer inte ut i första taget.

 

[Clas Ohlson]

Smart! Tack.