Self-leveling compound in stages?

[Tuffkotte]

Hello!

We have just gotten a new house and I have started removing wall panels and wooden flooring down in the basement. I am going to divide a fairly large room, where the floor needs self-leveling compound (it slopes quite a bit) with a masonry wall.

I am now wondering if it works to just self-level one of the new rooms and then build the wall and self-level the other room afterwards?

Or if it might even be possible to self-level a base where the built-up wall will stand and then self-level the two rooms separately?

 

[Stefan N]

Why float a plinth? Build the wall directly, then you float.

 

[largab]

It is clear that you can use leveling compound on a plinth. It can be a safe way for an amateur to create a base for building a wall in level. I did it when I was going to build a sauna. Poured a plinth where I was going to place the walls.

 

[Tuffkotte]

The floor is sloping and there's a difference of about 6cm from one end of the intended wall to the other. I thought it would be easiest to level the floor before building the wall.

 

[Stefan N]

There is no problem laying it level. If you can lay a wall, you can also fix it level.

 

[surris]

Why don't you pour the entire floor? And then build the wall.

 

[Tuffkotte]

Let's go with that. Thanks for the answers!

Any final tips on how to best get the wall level? (I've never built a wall before, but how hard can it be )

 

[Tuffkotte]

Why don't you float the entire floor? And then build the wall.

Mostly due to lack of time. We need one of the rooms before we move in, and the other will remain untouched for a while.

 

[Stefan N]

Fasten a board on each wall with a couple of spacers so you can stretch a string between them and get it straight. Reinforcement and dowels in the wall.

 

[Tuffkotte]

My thoughts were on how I physically get the blocks level. For example, by putting a little more mortar at one end of the wall and thus getting the wall level, or perhaps laying and reinforcing the first course on the concrete and then cutting wedges from the blocks that "eat up" the difference in level?

 

[Stefan N]

A little extra on one end and take it out on a few shifts.

 

[sixten88]

If I were in your shoes, I would have formed a small plinth, dubbed, and cast from about 4-10cm with coarse concrete to make up the height difference. It's much easier that way to get a good start on the masonry. Then I would have set a stud vertically at each end of the wall and marked each course of bricks. This way, you get the wall both horizontally and vertically straight. Then I would have self-leveled each room separately. It's much easier to level smaller areas at a time when mixing by hand.

 

[Plupp 231185]

Now I don't know how big the room is but if it needs to be floated at least 6cm thick at one end, that's quite a bit of compound to mix + self-leveling compound is not cheap

 

[Tuffkotte]

Thank you for all the answers! Now the wall is up. I did as @Stefan N suggested and built directly on the sloping floor. After three courses, everything was level