Moisture problems, drywall against the floor in garage

[karra]

Hello!

I am interested in a house that is currently for sale.
The problem for me is the garage, the inside of the exterior walls rests on lecablocks but an interior wall has plasterboard all the way down to the concrete slab, which has resulted in elevated moisture readings there (I had my own moisture meter, 25% at the bottom and a few centimeters up 24%). The garage lacks a floor drain.

At the moment, it's not an option to install a floor drain and level the floor with self-leveling compound.

Now to my question:
Do you think it's possible to cut the plasterboard and then the bottom part of the wall (sill) in order to insert lecablocks?
Do you have any tips on how this should be solved?

Thanks in advance!

/Karra

 

[thomas33]

That wall is hardly load-bearing and should, in that case, be removable and replaced with one made of lecablock if you want a wall there.

 

[karra]

That wall is hardly load-bearing and should therefore be able to be removed and replaced with one in lecablock if you want a wall there.

Do you think you can replace only the lower part with lecablock without having to tear down the entire wall?
I’m trying to get an idea of how much needs to be done with it (financially) to know what should be invested..

 

[thomas33]

You can of course saw off a piece of the plasterboard and get under lecablock, but then also have some type of moisture barrier between the plasterboard and stone.

 

[SueCia]

Do you think it's possible to replace only the lower part with lecablock without having to tear down the entire wall? Trying to get an idea of how much needs to be done with it (cost-wise) to know what should be offered...

The work with that wall should not even be reflected in your bid. Tearing down the entire wall and building a new one might cost around 15,000 with surface finish and everything.

Of course, it's possible to come up with some kind of solution where you cut off the bottom edge of the wall, but that requires more work and will be much worse than just redoing it. It's cheap to build walls.

 

[karra]

It's just that the house and garage are relatively new (2012) and therefore higher priced than other houses sold around the area (built in 2009/10) and 0.5-1 million cheaper than the house we are interested in now (those houses were built by Anebyhus, which has a higher standard from the start and one was 41sqm larger with a bigger plot). That's why we're considering negotiating due to this fault and another, which is of greater nature and requires a professional.

Thanks for the responses, they really help someone quite unfamiliar quite a bit!

 

[crazytok]

I wouldn't have cared one bit, if the house is appealing otherwise then it doesn't matter. Haggling because of this wall which isn't even load-bearing or has any constructional value since it's an interior wall you can basically just scrap.

It's about a wall costing a few thousand in comparison to the house?

If you want to make a low offer, it's not about the wall or that you need to give a reason. It's about no one else bidding against you and that you don't have to accept the asking price.

 

[karra]

I notice that some are now tuning into the idea that it shouldn't affect the bid, but that wasn't even what I was wondering about.
Especially people who have been very active here, unfortunate..

 

[Tomture61]

If the wall seems OK, why tear it down, install a fiber cement-based board (100 mm high) at the bottom but seal against the concrete floor.
This is if the moisture is now coming from a wet/snowy car.