I have become interested in a villa built in 1965 that requires renovation. Based on what I saw during the viewing and the seller's inspection, the most concerning issue appears to be several signs of moisture penetration on the west gable (swollen window frame, moisture stains on the wallpaper).
The wall in question is in the living room, which is open up to the roof (1.5-story house) and thus constitutes the entire west gable. It seems to consist of a wood frame with a veneer of mexitegel that appears to have some poor mortar joints. Additionally, there are two elongated horizontal windows high up on the wall that completely lack window sills—I suspect these are largely to blame...
I would need some help reasoning through potential measures and costs before any bidding takes place. Of course, it's impossible to know the extent of the damage before starting to lift the surfaces from the inside, but if we assume a "worst-case scenario" where at least parts of the load-bearing structure need to be replaced, how likely is it that the veneer can be preserved in this case? On one hand, I think it could be difficult to separate the ties from the timber that needs replacing, but on the other hand, there could be a need for new mortar and ties regardless if they have deteriorated in the moisture?
So on the theme of "worst-case"—how much does it cost to replace an entire gable in an existing house with a brick facade? 100,000 or 1,000,000? Much more expensive with larger window sections ("since you're at it")
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The wall in question is in the living room, which is open up to the roof (1.5-story house) and thus constitutes the entire west gable. It seems to consist of a wood frame with a veneer of mexitegel that appears to have some poor mortar joints. Additionally, there are two elongated horizontal windows high up on the wall that completely lack window sills—I suspect these are largely to blame...
I would need some help reasoning through potential measures and costs before any bidding takes place. Of course, it's impossible to know the extent of the damage before starting to lift the surfaces from the inside, but if we assume a "worst-case scenario" where at least parts of the load-bearing structure need to be replaced, how likely is it that the veneer can be preserved in this case? On one hand, I think it could be difficult to separate the ties from the timber that needs replacing, but on the other hand, there could be a need for new mortar and ties regardless if they have deteriorated in the moisture?
So on the theme of "worst-case"—how much does it cost to replace an entire gable in an existing house with a brick facade? 100,000 or 1,000,000? Much more expensive with larger window sections ("since you're at it")
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It's always difficult to comment on situations you haven't seen, but I can always offer a few general insights.
The house is a frame construction clad externally with half-brick calcium silicate stone, also known as Mexitegel. There should be a few centimeters air gap between the stone and the studs. The stone is secured with wall ties at regular intervals. The framework probably consists of vertical studs 50x100 mm spaced at c/c 600 mm. Between the studs, there is mineral wool insulation. Against the stone on the outside, the studs are likely covered with some form of asphalt paper. What is on the inside is more uncertain.
From your description, I gather that the moisture intrusion is linked to the windows in some way. I find it hard to believe that the framework would be so severely damaged that most of it needs replacing. Even in 1965, good quality pine wood was consistently used for this purpose.
A photo from inside the moisture-damaged wall would facilitate the assessment. If you can measure the wall thickness, that would also be interesting.
I'm hesitant to offer an opinion on repair costs at this stage. Generally speaking, one-and-a-half-story houses from 1965 are quite good houses in my experience.
The house is a frame construction clad externally with half-brick calcium silicate stone, also known as Mexitegel. There should be a few centimeters air gap between the stone and the studs. The stone is secured with wall ties at regular intervals. The framework probably consists of vertical studs 50x100 mm spaced at c/c 600 mm. Between the studs, there is mineral wool insulation. Against the stone on the outside, the studs are likely covered with some form of asphalt paper. What is on the inside is more uncertain.
From your description, I gather that the moisture intrusion is linked to the windows in some way. I find it hard to believe that the framework would be so severely damaged that most of it needs replacing. Even in 1965, good quality pine wood was consistently used for this purpose.
A photo from inside the moisture-damaged wall would facilitate the assessment. If you can measure the wall thickness, that would also be interesting.
I'm hesitant to offer an opinion on repair costs at this stage. Generally speaking, one-and-a-half-story houses from 1965 are quite good houses in my experience.
Thank you for a great review! I absolutely understand that it's difficult to do anything but speculate at this stage, but I think it sounds like you've assessed the situation correctly based on the information we have.
The house in question is not yet in our possession, which is why a hole has not been made in the wall for inspection. What we know is that one side of a window niche is obviously water-damaged and a high moisture content has been measured in the wood, and that there are moisture stains visible on the wallpaper along its side and down to the floor. I might be able to find a realtor photo to attach if that helps? I, of course, forgot to measure the entire wall's thickness, but I noticed it was quite thin - estimated to be just over 20 cm from facade brick to wallpaper?
I think that in the first stage, of course, you need to look into the wall and follow the spread of the moisture, but hopefully, you can resolve the moisture remediation from the inside and then take care of the facade wall's joints and any leaking window casings from the outside - thereby avoiding major structural interventions in the facade wall. Does that sound somewhat likely?
The house in question is not yet in our possession, which is why a hole has not been made in the wall for inspection. What we know is that one side of a window niche is obviously water-damaged and a high moisture content has been measured in the wood, and that there are moisture stains visible on the wallpaper along its side and down to the floor. I might be able to find a realtor photo to attach if that helps? I, of course, forgot to measure the entire wall's thickness, but I noticed it was quite thin - estimated to be just over 20 cm from facade brick to wallpaper?
I think that in the first stage, of course, you need to look into the wall and follow the spread of the moisture, but hopefully, you can resolve the moisture remediation from the inside and then take care of the facade wall's joints and any leaking window casings from the outside - thereby avoiding major structural interventions in the facade wall. Does that sound somewhat likely?
The wall should at least be 12+3+10+1.5 = 26.5 cm thick. It could easily have been 30 cm. I suspect that it's the size of the air gap that has been skimped on. The house is probably, like most others at the time, built with government loans, which required 10 cm of insulation.
I agree with you that the moisture remediation can likely be solved from the inside, without interventions in the facade stone.
I agree with you that the moisture remediation can likely be solved from the inside, without interventions in the facade stone.
I can't swear that my eye measurement is accurately calibrated to claim that it couldn't have been at least 26.5 cm - but there's likely no ocean-like air gap. I have to assume that all exterior walls have the same construction, and neither we nor the inspector could find any corresponding moisture penetration elsewhere. Therefore, I have to assume that a narrowly spaced air gap is at least not solely the cause of this particular water damage - but I'll see if I can come and measure a bit better before a potential purchase. Many thanks for the tips!