O
Rejäl said:
I myself have not seen a single passive house with fully timbered walls, but there's surely someone who has succeeded with this😉
you basically need to do the following:
build a passive house and clad it with timber.

but the walls will be up to 0.7 - 0.8 m thick
 
O oliven1 said:
Well, if you don't know building physics, you have no idea about the number of thermal bridges you should account for, unfortunately. There are a lot of thermal bridges in a conventional building.
'It sounds like you're saying that me and BIM energy are calculating wrong.

But that is exactly what the thermal bridges do in the construction given cc 900, 195x45 mm studs on a 45 mm timber frame, 6x4x3.5 meter building located in Stockholm.
 
O oliven1 said:
in principle, you can do the following:
build a passive house and clad it with timber.

but the walls will be up to 0.7 - 0.8 m thick
Did you miss the posts about PIR insulation? For a passive house, 0.25 m is sufficient then.
 
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O
Ulltand Ulltand said:
"It sounds like you're saying that I and BIM energy are calculating wrong.

But that's exactly what the thermal bridges do in the construction given cc 900, 195x45 mm studs on 45 mm timber frame 6x4x3.5 meter building placed in Stockholm.
cc900

you can't just calculate on those thermal bridges, there are incredibly many more thermal bridges in a building?
just the wall itself has so many more thermal bridges?
 
O
Ulltand Ulltand said:
Did you miss the posts about PIR insulation? For a passive house, 0.25 m is enough.
explain the wall construction?
from the outside in?
 
O oliven1 said:
cc900

you can't just consider those thermal bridges, there are a lot more thermal bridges in a building?
just the wall itself has a lot more thermal bridges?
Which ones do you want to add that you can eliminate in my house?

The wall has no more thermal bridges, the timber frame is load-bearing so framing inside 900 mm for insulation and paneling is sufficient. A few meters are added for windows if you place them deep in the construction.
 
O
Ulltand Ulltand said:
Which ones would you like to add that you can build away in my house?

The wall has no more thermal bridges, the timber frame is load-bearing so framing it up on the inside 900 mm for insulation and paneling is sufficient. A few more meters added for windows if you place them deep into the construction.
you need to understand that you are off track.
there are plenty of more thermal bridges in the house and especially in the wall.

but please explain the thickness of the wall in its entirety, how do you get down to 250mm
 
Rejäl said:
We had a neighbor who built a rough log house as a year-round house, and to get the building permit approved, he had to insulate all the outer walls internally to meet the energy requirements... then I feel that much of the sense of a log house disappears...
If you want to get more benefits from the log structure, shouldn't you use its mass to your advantage?

Ulltand Ulltand said:
You want to have a fireplace if you have a lot with plenty of trees, but I guess you can't count that in the calculations, right?
Do you even need to make such calculations for a cabin of 20-30m2? Can't you build it as an accessory building?
 
O oliven1 said:
explain the wall construction?
from outside to inside?
F fribygg said:
To fully benefit from the timber frame, shouldn't one use its mass to an advantage?


Do you even need to do such a calculation for a cottage of 20-30m2? Can't you construct it as an accessory building?
No, I'm not planning to do any, just pondering how it would be handled if one were to hand over something. Precisely, this becomes an accessory building attefall 25.
 
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F fribygg said:
To get greater benefits from the timber frame, shouldn't one utilize its mass to one's advantage?
You might think so, but it's difficult to get a building permit for a year-round residence with only wood as an insulation carrier in an exterior wall.

But it looks impressive and especially cozy with an open fireplace in these houses.
 
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Rejäl said:
We had a neighbor who built a rough log house as a year-round house, and to get the building permit, he had to insulate all the exterior walls on the inside to meet energy requirements.. then I think much of the feeling of a log house disappears...
That's how it is. Our solid log house has insulated bedrooms on the inside but we have kept the logs visible in the living room. It might be a way to go but whether it's sufficient, I don't know.

I believe there is manufactured timber with insulation in the logs as an alternative.
 
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Ulltand Ulltand said:
That's true. Our full log house has insulated bedrooms on the inside but retains the logs inside the main room. It might be a way to go, but I don't know if it's sufficient.

I believe there are manufactured logs with insulation in the logs as an alternative.
Yes, log house manufacturers need to be innovative if they want to remain... One way could be to split the logs and put insulation in between...
 
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Ulltand Ulltand said:
No, I'm not thinking about any hypothetical situation of how it would be handled if one were to hand something over. Exactly this will become a complementary building attefall 25
Attefall? Is it within the zoning plan?
 
F fribygg said:
Attefall? Is it within a detailed development plan?
Yes to both!
 
Ulltand Ulltand said:
Yes to both!
You can still apply for a building permit, I don't think you can manage a 20m2 house on stilts with a 10m2 usable loft within the Attefall regulations' 4m height limitation.
 
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