Hi!
I am going to expand a basement space and will erect a partition wall directly on the concrete floor.
Can I use entirely wooden studs, or do I need metal studs?
Can I combine and have metal lying on the floor and then wooden studs standing? I will have plywood + gypsum on the outside.
Kind regards, Joen
I am going to expand a basement space and will erect a partition wall directly on the concrete floor.
Can I use entirely wooden studs, or do I need metal studs?
Can I combine and have metal lying on the floor and then wooden studs standing? I will have plywood + gypsum on the outside.
Kind regards, Joen
Hi
Generally, it's customary to avoid wood against concrete on a surface that is directly on the ground due to moisture migration. In those cases, metal studs are typically used.
But it must be possible to place a metal stud on the floor and set wood studs above it; you can just screw through the wood into the metal stud, right?
Jocke
Generally, it's customary to avoid wood against concrete on a surface that is directly on the ground due to moisture migration. In those cases, metal studs are typically used.
But it must be possible to place a metal stud on the floor and set wood studs above it; you can just screw through the wood into the metal stud, right?
Jocke
It's called syllpapp then... kind of the same thing as tjärpapp, but a suitably wide strip for wooden studs.
I am fully renovating my split-level house. On the lower floor, I'll be using metal studs where there are no load-bearing wall constructions. In load-bearing ones, I use wooden studs and syllpapp. Metal studs are quite nice to work with...
I am fully renovating my split-level house. On the lower floor, I'll be using metal studs where there are no load-bearing wall constructions. In load-bearing ones, I use wooden studs and syllpapp. Metal studs are quite nice to work with...
I am a newcomer to this construction thing, so I'm not familiar with all the different names, but I guess that will come with time. 
The reason I'm wondering is that I prefer to use syllpapp + wood if possible.
It's a shed that will be built, and it doesn't matter at all how it looks, so I want to get away as cheaply as possible.
Joen
The reason I'm wondering is that I prefer to use syllpapp + wood if possible.
It's a shed that will be built, and it doesn't matter at all how it looks, so I want to get away as cheaply as possible.
Joen
I have no idea if I would say it becomes THAT much cheaper with wooden studs compared to steel... and the purchase of the sill seal probably makes the total price higher with wood... and safer for the future. =P how big of a storage are you planning to build?
It's important to have a capillary breaking layer between the wood and the concrete. That is achieved with sill paper that is asphalt-impregnated. It can even handle two layers of maintenance-free roofing felt, but the thicker sill paper is best.
Having metal studs without any protection directly against the concrete is not advisable even if they are galvanized. They will rust if there is moisture in the concrete slab.
I have personally used maintenance-free roofing felt as an 'adjustment' between the column top (concrete) and pure wood (only treated with rot protection) outdoors. I see no signs of rot or other issues after nine (9) years, even considering that rain can stand on the felt and be absorbed into the wood sideways. I also haven't found rot under the bottom sill in houses built 1950 and onwards, where separation was done with sill paper. (Where it has occurred, water has entered from a different path than from below.)
Metal studs are probably good, but they are clearly overrated. The only advantage they have is that they are straight and don't twist like a wood stud can do. Additionally, they're lightweight and contribute less to the fire load in the house.
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Byggaren
Having metal studs without any protection directly against the concrete is not advisable even if they are galvanized. They will rust if there is moisture in the concrete slab.
I have personally used maintenance-free roofing felt as an 'adjustment' between the column top (concrete) and pure wood (only treated with rot protection) outdoors. I see no signs of rot or other issues after nine (9) years, even considering that rain can stand on the felt and be absorbed into the wood sideways. I also haven't found rot under the bottom sill in houses built 1950 and onwards, where separation was done with sill paper. (Where it has occurred, water has entered from a different path than from below.)
Metal studs are probably good, but they are clearly overrated. The only advantage they have is that they are straight and don't twist like a wood stud can do. Additionally, they're lightweight and contribute less to the fire load in the house.
___________________________
Byggaren
nah... there are a few more advantages than that, I think:
"plåtsyllarna" have built-in sill paper attached (at least the ones I've bought).
it's easier to eliminate thermal bridges if they are in a wall that needs to be insulated.
it's super quick to cut studs without getting sawdust everywhere.
there are pre-drilled holes for pipe installation.
but I can actually add a disadvantage too:
I think they are weaker than wooden studs...
"plåtsyllarna" have built-in sill paper attached (at least the ones I've bought).
it's easier to eliminate thermal bridges if they are in a wall that needs to be insulated.
it's super quick to cut studs without getting sawdust everywhere.
there are pre-drilled holes for pipe installation.
but I can actually add a disadvantage too:
I think they are weaker than wooden studs...