I know, call the chimney sweep but I've already done that and the message is that they have to come and look which costs a lot of money. SO I want to make a valiant attempt to get the inspection approved without paying for a round of consultation.

The chimney is an old brick chimney with newly cast channels that are tight and approved.

I have now installed a stove in one of the 4 flues. The chimney has wood against it (interior walls that go from the chimney,). Upstairs, I will tear down a wall that is completely against the chimney on the side where the flue goes. The question, however, is what applies to wood against the chimney that is far from the flue. The chimney is quite large, so the entire chimney is hardly going to reach 85 degrees. In addition, there are brick "walls" extending from the chimney, about 30-40 cm in direct contact with wood... it's a bit unclear there as well what is considered distance to the chimney. Shouldn't there be numbers on the distance to the flue?

Additionally, I have installed a water-jacketed stove with 90% efficiency. Maybe it doesn't affect it, but the flue gases from this aren't exactly the same as from a "normal" cast iron stove...
 
M
I admittedly don't know the rules, but it is very common for joists and wall studs to partially rest against the chimney in old houses. You can't very well demolish the joists just to align with today's rules, and without that, it should presumably be approved.

However, I seem to recall that you can't have combustible material closer than 10cm from the chimney in new constructions or if you remove the joists and replace them with new ones.
 
M
Moreover, it's actually irrelevant what type of fireplace you have, as it may be replaced, and it's the construction of the walls/chimney that should be approved, not the fireplace itself.

Or are they supposed to come and approve the fireplace, but you're worried that they will complain?

Now that I think about it, I have wooden constructions in more or less direct contact with the chimney on all floors of our house from 1893.
 
Claes Sörmland
Traditionally, the short sides of timber walls and floor structures originate from the fireplace, and this is usually a safe solution. Masonry walls that originate from the fireplace and then transition to wood is a common old solution to avoid having wood lying against the part of the fireplace that can get warm. I have this solution in my house from 1920.

A bigger problem is usually when a timber-framed wall has been subsequently slapped up over the fireplace. Then it cannot be inspected and might also get heated.
 
Isn't it the distance to the flue that is meant? I don't remember what it says now. You usually have a "fläns" of bricks to get the right distance where the wall/floor joist meets the chimney with the flue.
 
M
I was thinking about this thread last night and looked at our chimneys. Both the floor and the wooden moldings are flush against the chimney.
 
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