Matti_75 Matti_75 said:
But please, stop complicating everything. It's much quicker and easier to tape than to first press in a backing strip and then seal the gap. It's not 100% correct, but in an old house, there are worse inaccuracies than that.
Isn't the question in the title whether it SHOULD be taped? That it is possible to tape despite it likely being better to seal, I think is now completely clear.
 
J
Would never have taped in this situation without mjukfog, that's the right way!
 
J Jansson69 said:
Would never have taped in this situation; soft sealant is the right choice!
In what way?
 
J Jansson69 said:
Would never have taped in this situation without soft sealant is the right choice!
Why?
 
J
Matti_75 Matti_75 said:
In what way?
Diagram of a door frame installation, showing parts like architrave, sealant, backer rod, threshold, and components labeled in Swedish for interior and exterior views.
 
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J
Matti_75 Matti_75 said:
Why?
Because it is cheaper and simpler. Additionally, if you tape outside the board, it won't be sealed, and the soft joint connects to the plastic inside the board.
 
Yes, I know that's how it's supposed to be done, but in TS's case, he doesn't even know if there's any plastic. If he is going to seal, he must seal at least 15 mm thick to get inside the potential plastic. Tape works perfectly well in this case and many others, and it is an approved solution even in new construction. Additionally, it's easier to make the tape airtight compared to sealing.
 
J
If there is no plastic, my advice is to save on taping!
 
J Jansson69 said:
If there's no plastic, my advice is to save on taping!
The tape potentially stops drafts since drev is not airtight.
 
J Jansson69 said:
If there's no plastic, saving on taping is my advice!
According to TS, there is plastic in the wall.
 
J
F fribygg said:
According to TS there is plastic in the wall.
I know, but I replied to Matti because he described it differently!
 
Matti_75 Matti_75 said:
The tape possibly stops drafts since the gear is not airtight.
Soft sealant stops drafts and seals against the plastic in the wall.
 
Matti_75 Matti_75 said:
Yes, I know you're supposed to do that, but in TS's case, they don't even know if there's any plastic.
K Knalle10 said:
Yes, there is plastic in the wall, but there are many screw holes in the walls and the new windows are not sealed in any way against the plastic.
It's completely clear that TS has plastic in the wall.
 
The "correct" way is to use backing rod and flexible sealant, which works well. Alternatively, there is plasticized drev you can clarify from the inside, which should work well. If you have already done the drev and it is possible to tape the gap so it holds properly, then it works sufficiently well.

What did it look like from the beginning? When I replaced my 70s speakers, there was no vapor barrier or plastic at all, and my tape was significantly better than what was there initially.

If you change so that you insulate significantly more than before, you have to consider the vapor barrier, but that doesn't happen if you just replace a window.
 
Oh, there was a big debate about the tape. I'll try to explain simply again: the plasterboard wall and window are flush with a 15 mm gap between them that is filled with insulation. Yes, there is plastic in the walls, but it doesn’t seal against the windows.
Someone advised me that I should tape the 15mm space between the plasterboard wall and the window frame with vapor-tight tape before I install the trim inside the house. I don't think I can explain it better than that, along with an additional picture.
 
  • Gap between drywall and window frame filled with insulation, showing a 15mm space recommended to be sealed with vapor-tight tape.
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