Have an uninsulated carport. Want to insulate it, but it doesn't feel very fun to have to take down the panel to be able to put up the weather barrier between studs and panel. So how do you best put up the weather barrier "from the inside" if you want to insulate an uninsulated space?
 
zingo said:
I have a carport that is uninsulated. I want to insulate it, but it doesn't feel very fun to have to take down the panel to be able to put up the weather barrier between the studs and the panel. So how do you best put up the weather barrier "from the inside" if you want to insulate an uninsulated space?
First, you need to create an air gap, inside of which you place the weather barrier that you can fold around the studs on the inside.
 
I already have a 20 mm air gap between the panel and the studs, since I have nailed the panel to horizontal "nail battens" 20 x 70. But if I put paper on these, it becomes more like air pockets than air gaps. So maybe it's not enough?
 
A question: A carport is completely open with one or maybe two walls + a roof.
What do you gain by insulating those walls?

Or is it perhaps a garage with four walls you have?

I haven't tried it myself, but I could imagine that so-called west coast board, carefully installed, could make the windbreaker redundant.
 
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Clarification:

It is a carport, but I will make part of it winter-insulated. I have already done the joists and laid the tongue-and-groove floor. Now the ceiling and walls remain.
 
What kind of panel do you have?
If it's lockpanel, then it's well-ventilated, and you just need to place the wind barrier against the nailing battens.
 
Yes, 20 x 145 with cover battens.

And how thick insulation is recommended?
I live in southern Sweden and in winter it doesn't need to be warmer than 10 degrees in the space.
From April to October, I plan to have the heating turned off.
 
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10 cm is enough, but of course, 20 cm is better, meaning less heating electricity (?) is needed. In the ceiling, you should have 20 cm if possible.
 
OK, thanks!
 
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