He he, this project was actually completely valium-free. The next project will be click-flooring. Should I buy a straitjacket already?mats_o said:Do you think you saved that cost considering what drills for the little one would have cost and how much valium would have been needed
A hug-yourself sweater might be a good idea. It becomes quite difficult to manage hitting your fingers with a hammer, at least
If you're laying laminate, consider moving up one or two price classes from the cheapest options. I've tested several in the 50-130 kronor range, and yes, there's a noticeable difference between the cheapest and those around a hundred per m2. Primarily, it's the fit and the hardness of the edges that improve. Another little tip is a jigsaw with laminate blades. I bought some special blades at Bauhaus, and it doesn't fray at all. Just saw and lay it down.
If you're laying laminate, consider moving up one or two price classes from the cheapest options. I've tested several in the 50-130 kronor range, and yes, there's a noticeable difference between the cheapest and those around a hundred per m2. Primarily, it's the fit and the hardness of the edges that improve. Another little tip is a jigsaw with laminate blades. I bought some special blades at Bauhaus, and it doesn't fray at all. Just saw and lay it down.
Reminds me of how I did in my son's room in the apartment we used to live in.
But I used Elfa tracks screwed onto the wall.
Hung on both countertops, shelves and computers, TV, a lot of books on the shelves as well as a bunch of other heavy items.
Worked perfectly
But I used Elfa tracks screwed onto the wall.
Hung on both countertops, shelves and computers, TV, a lot of books on the shelves as well as a bunch of other heavy items.
Worked perfectly
Beijerbygg.se costs 197:- eachtrojlee said:where can you buy consoles 50*50? and what might they cost
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M
http://www.lundbergs.com/konsoler/hyllor___179.aspx?prodId=289&startId=32
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Hello
I'm reviving this old thread because it inspired me to build my own desk following the same design as the original poster. My own desk consists of a countertop from Ikea measuring 246cm in length and 63cm in depth. I planned to build a frame in the same way as the original poster. I have concrete on the long side and drywall on the short sides. I've ordered 3 brackets Stefan from Lundbergs, sized 50x50. The idea was to have about cc60 between the brackets.
However, I've just encountered a problem, which is why I'm bringing up this old thread since I need to deviate from the original poster's design. I can't find any studs in the drywall to attach the frame for the short sides. I'd prefer to avoid opening the walls and reinforcing them as I lack the knowledge. Additionally, one of the short sides is an exterior wall, which I assume complicates things further.
My thought is whether I can replace the two short-side frames with an additional 2 brackets, so there will be a bracket next to each short side. On the desk, there will be 2 computer monitors and a 40" LCD TV. Does anyone have another solution?
Grateful for any answers!
I'm reviving this old thread because it inspired me to build my own desk following the same design as the original poster. My own desk consists of a countertop from Ikea measuring 246cm in length and 63cm in depth. I planned to build a frame in the same way as the original poster. I have concrete on the long side and drywall on the short sides. I've ordered 3 brackets Stefan from Lundbergs, sized 50x50. The idea was to have about cc60 between the brackets.
However, I've just encountered a problem, which is why I'm bringing up this old thread since I need to deviate from the original poster's design. I can't find any studs in the drywall to attach the frame for the short sides. I'd prefer to avoid opening the walls and reinforcing them as I lack the knowledge. Additionally, one of the short sides is an exterior wall, which I assume complicates things further.
My thought is whether I can replace the two short-side frames with an additional 2 brackets, so there will be a bracket next to each short side. On the desk, there will be 2 computer monitors and a 40" LCD TV. Does anyone have another solution?
Grateful for any answers!
I believe the attachment point is worth much more than two extra brackets (with a little deflection), even if it is not fastened to the studs but just with, for example, a metal expander, a coarse one takes a good amount of lateral load (SAM 6E I think is a little under 0.5kN and if it is double plasterboard it probably goes up 50% more).
If you feel uncertain, you could add another bracket (reduce the center-to-center distance) and then attach a frame fixed to the plasterboard.
If you feel uncertain, you could add another bracket (reduce the center-to-center distance) and then attach a frame fixed to the plasterboard.
So you believe in having a barrier on the short sides attached with metal expanders (like this one?) and an extra bracket?
I might have another problem that would disappear if I didn't have the barrier on the short sides. The board is 246cm and the room is 251cm. That is, if we assume that the board is in the middle and the joists are 4.5cm, it would rest with only 2cm against the joists on the short side. Perhaps it doesn't matter anyway?
I might have another problem that would disappear if I didn't have the barrier on the short sides. The board is 246cm and the room is 251cm. That is, if we assume that the board is in the middle and the joists are 4.5cm, it would rest with only 2cm against the joists on the short side. Perhaps it doesn't matter anyway?
Yes, I'm not sure if the additional bracket is necessary, but if it's a matter of belts and braces then... But my opinion was mainly that studs attached only in plasterboard, but at the front edge of the board, are still more rigid and likely take at least as much load as brackets placed at the back edge.
That they don't have full overlap doesn't matter much (it's hard to see that the board or studs it's resting on would split). If you want, you could always try omitting these studs, see how it feels, and if needed, add the studs.
Yes, the metal expanders you linked to at ClaesOhlson should work excellently (I've never used theirs but have no reason to doubt), but choose the largest (6mm), and it's a good idea to complement with the tool (pliers); with smaller expanders it usually goes well to screw to expand, but with the large ones it's easy for them to turn.
It might be good to know that the hole you need to make in the wall is quite large, so it might not be fun if you want to take the board down again.
That they don't have full overlap doesn't matter much (it's hard to see that the board or studs it's resting on would split). If you want, you could always try omitting these studs, see how it feels, and if needed, add the studs.
Yes, the metal expanders you linked to at ClaesOhlson should work excellently (I've never used theirs but have no reason to doubt), but choose the largest (6mm), and it's a good idea to complement with the tool (pliers); with smaller expanders it usually goes well to screw to expand, but with the large ones it's easy for them to turn.
It might be good to know that the hole you need to make in the wall is quite large, so it might not be fun if you want to take the board down again.
By the way, should the TV and screens be placed at the front edge of the shelf or at the back? if it's at the back, I don't think you'll have any problems whatsoever with the mounting, provided that it's a solid concrete wall.
Yep, the TV and screens will be at the back. But my son tends to have a habit of sitting on the edge of the desk (3 years old and about 16 kg at the moment), so I also prefer belt and suspenders I'll just have to order another bracket. Funny that the brackets are the most expensive part of the build!
I'll try to remember to come back and update this thread with a few more pictures. Thanks for the help
I'll just have to order another bracket. Funny that the brackets are the most expensive part of the build!I'll try to remember to come back and update this thread with a few more pictures. Thanks for the help
Regarding the metal expander, I was at Clas Olson this evening and those called 6e, which as I understand are the strongest they have for single plasterboard, have a screw that is 6 cm. Considering that the stud is 4.5cm, that leaves only 1.5 cm going into the metal expander. Feels a bit weak, I think. Can you buy just screws for a metal expander somewhere that are a little longer with the same diameter?ullberg said:
Absolutely, the 6 in 6e stands for 6mm so any M6 bolt works fine (and the analysis is correct, the length of the included screws is more for attaching a bracket than reaching through a stud).ds99jove said:
An important thing is to choose correctly between 6E & 6D (single or double plasterboard), do you know you have single? Otherwise, the recommendation (sorry for offering it afterwards) is to drill first and buy later...
/U
I'm sure it's simple plasterboard I test-drilled with a 2mm drill to find the stud earlier today and it felt like about 2cm (the total length of the drill was maybe 4cm).
Going on a trip to Hornbach tomorrow to buy the screws needed. I was at Bauhaus today but it's absolutely impossible to get help; they literally walk the other way if they see someone who looks like they want help. Grrr!
I test-drilled with a 2mm drill to find the stud earlier today and it felt like about 2cm (the total length of the drill was maybe 4cm).Going on a trip to Hornbach tomorrow to buy the screws needed. I was at Bauhaus today but it's absolutely impossible to get help; they literally walk the other way if they see someone who looks like they want help. Grrr!