Hi,

I intend to extend a glulam beam as shown in the picture below, what is the best way to do it?
The 45x195 planks are screwed and rest on a 45x45 at the front edge of the supporting beam for the patio roof...

Glulam beam 56x225 and glulam post 90x90, distance to the next post is 2500mm
Wooden beam extension project with a white laminated timber beam on a supporting post in a backyard with a pool and wooden deck.

1. Saw off the glulam beam at the center of the post so the old and new beam can share the post, abutting each other. They are screwed on the backside of the post and also connected with a 45x45 at the bottom for the roof planks.
Extension of a glulam beam on a porch, 56x225 beam supported by a 90x90 post, with a view of a garden, pool, and shed in the background.
2. Notch both beams and the joint over the post, not sure if this will be stronger in any way?
A wooden beam joint on a white post in a backyard with a swimming pool and hedges in the background.
3. Butt joint with the overhang using a "nail plate" from a 45x195, the next 90x90 post is 2500 from the one in the picture.
A wooden beam joint with overlay labeled "SPIKFÖRBAND 45x195", supported by a white post in a garden setting with pool and shed.
4. Other?

/J
 
J jokkey said:
Hello,

I'm going to extend a glulam beam as shown in the image below, what's the best way to do this?
These are 45x195 studs that are screwed and rest on a 45x45 at the front edge of the load-bearing beam to the patio roof...

Glulam beam 56x225 and glulam post 90x90, the distance to the next post is 2500mm
[image]

1. Cut the glulam beam in the middle of the post so that the old and new beam share the post flush with each other. Screwed on the back of the post and also joined with 45x45 at the bottom for the roof studs.
[image]
2. Notch both beams and the joint over the post, not sure if this makes it stronger in any way?
[image]
3. Splice flush with the overhang using a "nail joint" from a 45x195, the next 90x90 post comes at 2500 from the one in the image.
[image]
4. Other?

/J
Notch together with nail plates without cutting the existing beam should work.
 
T ToreJ01 said:
Notching together with nail plates without cutting the existing beam should work.
Do you mean like alternative two but keeping the overhang?
 
AXS
Would go with suggestion 1, should be the absolute best looking.
 
As two but the original beam should rest on the entire post (at least) and the new one just as far in the other direction.

Protte
 
Is it just a pergola or is it supposed to support more than its own load?
 
mexitegel mexitegel said:
Is it just a pergola or is it supposed to support more than its own load?
Conservatory, kanalplast.
 
prototypen prototypen said:
Like two but the original beam should lie on the entire post (at least) and the new one just as far in the other direction.

Protte
Do you mean like this? Because you want the new beam to also rest on the post, right?
A garden with a white post supporting a brown beam, with trees, a round above-ground pool, and a small shed in the background.
 
In that, you lose much of the left beam's load-bearing capacity as it only has support along half of its height and therefore risks splitting lengthwise at the height of the notch.

It is better for them to rest 50% on the post each and to connect the beams with nail plate.
 
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Joak
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mexitegel mexitegel said:
In that, you lose much of the left beam's load-bearing capacity as it only has support on half its height and therefore risks splitting longitudinally at the notch.

It's better that they each rest 50% on the post and that you connect the beams with a nail plate.
Thanks for the input. I've also been considering the risk of splitting at the notch.
I might have to live with a nail plate even if it's not very aesthetically pleasing.
 
J jokkey said:
Thanks for the input. I have also had some concerns about the risk of it splitting when making cutouts.
Might have to live with a nail plate even if it's not so nice.
A couple of through-going threaded rods will fix this.
 
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Ingenjören
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The joint can be executed in different ways, and I believe a Gerber fitting that is also painted white will be the least visible and technically superior.

Diagram showing a gerber joint on a beam, with a white-painted fitting that minimizes visibility and supports structural integrity.

Illustration of a Gerber joint with flat steel on wooden beams, showing technical details and connection method.
 
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