I have a question...
If I want to replace a standing 45x95 pine stud at 240cm with a steel stud, what are the minimum dimensions I can get away with while still having the same load-bearing capacity?
I need something as narrow as possible, like two 50x20x3mm in a row lengthwise (100x20) in the same direction as the stud. Would that work?
If I want to replace a standing 45x95 pine stud at 240cm with a steel stud, what are the minimum dimensions I can get away with while still having the same load-bearing capacity?
I need something as narrow as possible, like two 50x20x3mm in a row lengthwise (100x20) in the same direction as the stud. Would that work?
I interpret your question as wanting to replace a 45x95 wood stud with a steel profile to reduce wall thickness while maintaining load-bearing capacity. There are reinforced steel studs that can be used for load-bearing walls, but they are hardly smaller than 45x70. Looking at it as a purely theoretical problem, it's the product of the modulus of elasticity and the moment of inertia, usually referred to as EI, that should be compared. Then a VKR tube 50x30x4 could replace a 45x95 C 24 stud if oriented so that the 50 mm dimension corresponds to 95 mm on the wooden stud. Additionally, the profile must be braced in the weaker direction. 60x40x4 is also conceivable, but then in the other direction. The problem is that there aren't many profiles to choose from. Personally, I believe a more feasible approach is to combine wood with K-plywood.
If you only compare the moment of inertia and assume the spacing with your 45x95 is 600 mm, then a solid plank wall of the same material would need to have a thickness of 40 mm to provide the same stiffness. It is costly to save on wall thickness because the relationship to stiffness is cubic.
Thanks for the response! I might need to halve a beam in length to fit a door right there and I'm considering if it can be replaced with a very narrow steel profile on the side instead. I've found 50x20x3 and thought about welding two of those together lengthwise, but realize it might not be stable enough since it's so narrow. On the other hand, it would be against the chimney stack on the other side, so in that direction, it probably won't buckle. I would also need to weld threads into the steel profile to attach the frame (rod with internal thread, welded at both ends). It's a bit too much hassle and still flimsy... Maybe I need to think further...
Haha, yes, I realize myself that I'm complicating things.
But to fit a new kitchen the way we want it, we need to move a door about 10 cm sideways. And then it would end up exactly where the last stud in the heart wall emanates from the chimney. And you don’t want it to be weak right there. So that's the consideration.
You want to know how to solve potential problems before you start sawing...
But to fit a new kitchen the way we want it, we need to move a door about 10 cm sideways. And then it would end up exactly where the last stud in the heart wall emanates from the chimney. And you don’t want it to be weak right there. So that's the consideration.
You want to know how to solve potential problems before you start sawing...
If you want to move forward with this problem or when you have finished thinking, you probably need to orient us more about the situation.
Yes, I will keep thinking... There's a lot going on right now. Especially at work. I'm there now since 8 in the morning on overtime... So I don't really have time to delve deeper even though I should. I'll get back to you...
Thanks for now!
Thanks for now!