There you go, it would have been interesting to try and see if it made any difference. But, that will have to wait until I stumble upon both bits and screws one day, because I'm not going to invest in that crap again 
If it makes such a big difference with the bits, it's still just as bad of Grabber to provide such a poor bit, no chain is stronger than its weakest link....
I might have to stop by XL one day when I'm passing through and ask if they let me borrow a bit so I can test it on some of the screws I've already used
Asked XL for a quote on materials for my garage before the construction started, but they were the most expensive on everything pretty much. However, they had a good price on Fermacell wet room plasterboards when I was building the bathroom, much cheaper than everyone else, so I can recommend them for that
If it makes such a big difference with the bits, it's still just as bad of Grabber to provide such a poor bit, no chain is stronger than its weakest link....
I might have to stop by XL one day when I'm passing through and ask if they let me borrow a bit so I can test it on some of the screws I've already used
Asked XL for a quote on materials for my garage before the construction started, but they were the most expensive on everything pretty much. However, they had a good price on Fermacell wet room plasterboards when I was building the bathroom, much cheaper than everyone else, so I can recommend them for that
MB77, do you also use torx a lot?
Don't you feel that you need to apply more force behind the driver when you're screwing PTS, compared to other torx screws?
Don't you feel that you need to apply more force behind the driver when you're screwing PTS, compared to other torx screws?
Finally found a screw that works perfectly. Essve has a trim screw with a torx head that is almost exactly like the floor screw. Works great for installing both floor and panel hidden with it, easy to screw in, and one of my used bits has now lasted for 1000 screws without even getting noticeably more worn.
Old thread but now Grabber actually has panel screws with Torx Going to try these myself.
Going to try these myself.I screw a lot of paneling, moldings, etc. The downside to that, I think, is that it's a bit more complicated with painting. I want the entire screw head to be covered with paint, and you have to work on that (at least with Falu red paint). You don't want any shine from screw heads. When nailing, that problem doesn't arise.
Which panel screws do you believe in this year?
Essve Facade Screw with countersunk head, Stainless A4, Corrosivity Class C5, available in various colors.
Essve Facade Screw, cylindrical, Stainless A4, Corrosivity Class C5,
Grabber Panel and Deck Screw PTX UTV, zinc/nickel C4
Gubbebo Panel Screw Impreg+ C4 TX20
Essve Facade Screw with countersunk head, Stainless A4, Corrosivity Class C5, available in various colors.
Essve Facade Screw, cylindrical, Stainless A4, Corrosivity Class C5,
Grabber Panel and Deck Screw PTX UTV, zinc/nickel C4
Gubbebo Panel Screw Impreg+ C4 TX20
Hello! I'm contemplating the choice of fastening. It's about horizontal 22 mm paneling (Z-panel or double groove panel) that will be attached to 28x70 nail battens (I know, a bit flimsy but that was the recommendation I got before the construction started and now everything is dimensioned for a certain thickness of the entire facade). I would have preferred nails but considering the slightly flimsy nail battens, I've started looking at facade screws, mainly grabber PTX. There are indeed some advantages too.
In my case, it's about a total of 165 sqm of facade, 10-20 screws/m2 = 1600-3200 screws. What have you paid for your panel screws? The best I've found is K-rauta, 250 pieces (48 mm) for 299 SEK...
In my case, it's about a total of 165 sqm of facade, 10-20 screws/m2 = 1600-3200 screws.
What have you paid for your panel screws? The best I've found is K-rauta, 250 pieces (48 mm) for 299 SEK...
Weak?A Alphaminor said:
All the Z-panel we have on our three houses is mounted with nails.
Horizontal panel on 28x70 sparse panel.
Even after almost 10 years, no panel board has come loose. They are rock solid!
Sounds good then! According to AMA (I think?) or at least the wood guide and so on, it is recommended to have about 2 times the panel thickness as a nail base behind the panel. In any case, 34 mm should be used as nailing battens, in all manuals etc. I have seen. But it doesn't seem to be the case in reality, and apparently it works fine anyway!
But then you probably shouldn't have wind barrier on the outermost layer, I suppose, to avoid nailing through it (if you, like me, have a layer of facade boards between the frame and nailing battens)?
But then you probably shouldn't have wind barrier on the outermost layer, I suppose, to avoid nailing through it (if you, like me, have a layer of facade boards between the frame and nailing battens)?
We have 9 mm exterior gypsum board. It also stabilizes the entire building.A Alphaminor said:
There are panel nails adapted for precisely 28mm battens and 22mm thick panels.A Alphaminor said:Sounds good then! According to AMA (I think?) or at least the wood guide, etc., it is recommended to have about 2 times the panel thickness as a nail fixture behind the panel. In any case, 34 mm as battens, in all the manuals, etc. I've seen. But it doesn't seem to be like that in reality, and obviously, it works fine anyway!
But then you shouldn't have wind barrier outermost, I suppose, to avoid nailing through it (if, like me, you have a layer of facade boards between the frame and the battens)?
Here is an example: https://www.hornbach.se/shop/GUNNEBO-Panelspik-2-8x48mm-1000st/6821979/artikel-detaljer.html
Well, that's something. Just buy it! Then you can certainly have a box of self-drilling panel screws for all near-end fastenings...V vectrex said:
Pretty nice that the development seems to be progressing when it comes to screw heads for panel screws...
Has anyone tested and compared the screw that @Yrrol posted earlier in this thread?
The designs do differ quite a bit, I must say, so there should be some pros and cons, or what do you say, those of you with experience...?
Has anyone tested and compared the screw that @Yrrol posted earlier in this thread?
- Essve Fasadskruv försänkt huvud, Stainless A4, Corrosion class C5, available in different colors.
- Essve Fasadskruv, cylindrical, Stainless A4, Corrosion class C5,
- Grabber Panel- och trallskruv PTX UTV, zonk/nickel C4
- Gubbebo Panelskruv Impreg+ C4 TX20
The designs do differ quite a bit, I must say, so there should be some pros and cons, or what do you say, those of you with experience...?