I am going to build an indoor staircase and will glue together 2 pieces of 120 x 45 mm lumber for the steps. However, these have rounded edges, creating a recess at the joint that needs to be filled.
What type of filler is suitable? Is 2-component plastic filler appropriate? It becomes very hard, but is there a risk of a crack forming in the joint if the wood dries and shrinks? Should I use some form of elastic filler, and if so, which type is recommended? Is husfix suitable? The filler must be paintable.
 
Without knowing the measurements and usage for the planned staircase, I feel that your solution seems doubtful for several reasons. I assume that by 45x120 joists you mean dimension-planed spruce? It works for a temporary staircase but is not so good in the long run. Among other things, because it's difficult to surface treat. If it's not cabinet-dry wood, the putty variant will become troublesome. The best material you can use for a wooden staircase is tongue-and-groove dried floorboards made of pine of an appropriate thickness (depending on the width of the steps). Especially if it's just a straight flight of stairs. Other alternatives are edge-glued panels or regular planed pine.
 
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Yes, that staircase is not going to be a pretty sight.
Is it going to be in a storage room or something?
 
It's about a staircase to the attic, so there aren't really high demands on the aesthetic appearance. Today I have a ladder, but I'm thinking of building a staircase instead.

Yes, it's correct that I'm planning to buy structural lumber made of spruce (class C24 at K-Rauta). You say there will be problems with the surface treatment. Do you mean that spruce is more difficult to paint than pine?
 
keep in mind that regular timber is not great carpentry wood. It will likely warp and bend a little, and if you've applied filler in the joint, it will probably come loose and look ugly anyway.
 
If you want a tight joint, you need to plane down what's necessary to remove the rounding, it's not something you fill with putty.
 
Yes, I agree with you that it might not be a good idea to try and fill the gap. So I solved the problem by cutting off a centimeter from the plank, so the rounded edge disappears.
 
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