Hello!

So, we have a carpenter here working for us.

He refuses to understand that you need to lift the drywall 10mm off the floor. Where can one find information about this?

And about needing to place connectors at each panel joint for the best durability, instead of laying plywood?

I've worked with 4 carpentry companies now where most don't really know what they're doing.

It's terrible that there are so many unprofessional construction companies.

Thanks for the tips.
 
H
swealp swealp said:
Hi!

Well, we have a carpenter here working for us.

He refuses to understand that you need to lift the drywall 10mm from the floor. Where can we find information about this?

Also, that you need to apply joints at every panel joint for the best durability, instead of laying plywood?

I have worked with 4 carpentry companies now where most of them don't know what they're doing.

It's terrible that there are so many untrustworthy construction companies.

Thanks for the tips.
it could rather be that you don't know what you are doing.

lifting the drywall 10mm is not a construction rule but something you need to order as an extra.

applying joints? what do you even mean?
if you mean crosspieces between every drywall joint, you really shouldn't do that.

seems like 4 carpentry companies are right and you as a happy amateur are completely wrong
 
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H hul said:
if you mean noggins between each drywall joint, you really shouldn't do that.
That there should be some type of stud/plywood/OSB behind each drywall joint you would probably agree with, right?
 
H
-RB- -RB- said:
That there should be some kind of rule/plywood/OSB behind every drywall joint you'll surely agree on?
Yes, of course. It can be solved in many ways.
The ones you mentioned or t-list work well.

But saying you must place connections (blocking) at every joint is wrong. Above door headers, you might need them, but otherwise not.
 
Then we agree. It felt like in this case it was important to be very clear. :)
 
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swealp
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H hul said:
Yes, of course. It can be solved in many ways.
The ones you mentioned or t-list work well.

But the fact that connections (shorts) must be placed in every joint is wrong. Above door headers, you might need them, but otherwise not
Oh, I urge you to swallow your pride and admit the mistake instead of arguing against it since it's obvious you built it wrong :)
 
  • Cross-section diagram of a wet room ceramic wall with labeled construction details like vapor barrier, studs, and plywood. Highlighted notes address construction errors.
One should follow the manufacturer's instructions. Check the manufacturer's website for what is stated there.
 
swealp swealp said:
Oh, I encourage you to swallow your pride and admit mistakes instead of arguing against when you've obviously built wrong :)
Isn't that Säker vattens construction for wet rooms? Are you building a wet room?
It also states that the plywood should be lifted 10mm, not the gypsum, and if you have plywood behind, nothing else is needed in the gypsum joints.

It feels like a little more info is needed...
 
Why should the plywood be raised by 10 mm?
 
Immobil Immobil said:
Why should the plywood be lifted 10 mm?
To prevent it from absorbing water from the concrete/screed.
 
H
swealp swealp said:
Wow, I encourage you to swallow your pride and admit mistakes instead of arguing against it as you have clearly built wrong :)
You clearly have no idea what you're talking about.
Everything I wrote before is still correct.
 
H
swealp swealp said:
Wow, I urge you to swallow your pride and admit mistakes instead of arguing against when you've obviously made a mistake :)
Bringing up a drawing that concerns something entirely different than what you mentioned before says quite a lot about your knowledge.
 
useless useless said:
Isn't that Säker Vattens construction for wet rooms? Are you building a wet room?
Then it says that the plowood should be raised 10mm, not the gypsum board, and if you have plywood behind there is no need for anything else in the gypsum joints.

It feels like a bit more information is needed...
Hi best useless!

I talked to Knauf's Swedish construction engineer who says that even the gypsum board should be raised 10mm so as not to absorb moisture. Even Gyproc's installation manual says so.
 
  • Text from email advising to lift gypsum board 10mm from the floor to prevent moisture absorption, signed by Knauf's building engineer, Anders Andersson.
  • Guide text advising drywall should be raised 5–10 mm from the floor for better moisture protection.
H
swealp swealp said:
Hi best useless!

I spoke with Knauf's Swedish construction engineer who says that the plasterboard should also be lifted 10mm to avoid absorbing moisture. Gyproc's installation manual also says this.
You’re just proving that you’re wrong and we are right.

It very clearly states “SHOULD” so it's not a requirement.
Lifting the plasterboard is not a requirement, but if you want to, it should be ordered.

There are many advantageous things on a construction site, like having 300mm insulation instead of 200mm, but of course, you would have to order
And pay for it.
 
The Bible when it comes to many questions of execution is otherwise HusAMA.
 
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