Now that the foundation is laid, the basement is built, and the kitchen and hall are being procured, it is time to start looking slightly at the next phase of the renovation - the staircase.
The new staircase to the basement (and later new to the upper floor) will consist of two U-stairs. They will be placed in a "stairwell" between 1) the existing exterior wall, 2) a new wall to be built (basement level) and framed (entrée level) in the back part of the staircase, and 3) the chimney + new wall to be constructed on the basement/entrance level.
Now to my question. Do we need to "extend" anything at the chimney before installing the staircase, for fire safety reasons or similar?
We can probably assume that we will use the chimney, if that has any significance (it might always be assumed).
The new staircase to the basement (and later new to the upper floor) will consist of two U-stairs. They will be placed in a "stairwell" between 1) the existing exterior wall, 2) a new wall to be built (basement level) and framed (entrée level) in the back part of the staircase, and 3) the chimney + new wall to be constructed on the basement/entrance level.
Now to my question. Do we need to "extend" anything at the chimney before installing the staircase, for fire safety reasons or similar?
We can probably assume that we will use the chimney, if that has any significance (it might always be assumed).
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· Norrbotten
· 3 390 posts
The basic rule is 100 mm to combustible material from the outside of the chimney. The chimney should be plastered or slurried along its entire length. How you build to achieve a 100 mm distance is difficult/impossible to say in your specific case. You probably know best yourself perhaps.
Oh no... had hoped that about 5 cm would be enough. But if it's necessary, it's necessary.
I have to ask if these are new regulations? The house from -44 has, for example, joists directly around the chimney...
and the kitchen cabinets are mounted ON it at the back...
If you're going to create a 10 cm "pocket" by a wall, my first thought would be to frame it out with regular wooden studs. But there must be other non-combustible materials to use in that case?
Best regards,
Katarina
I have to ask if these are new regulations? The house from -44 has, for example, joists directly around the chimney...
and the kitchen cabinets are mounted ON it at the back...
If you're going to create a 10 cm "pocket" by a wall, my first thought would be to frame it out with regular wooden studs. But there must be other non-combustible materials to use in that case?
Best regards,
Katarina
Check with the master chimney sweep. He might be able to come home. However, the chimney sweep here in town usually talks about 10cm. But sometimes minerit is mentioned in between, and then 5cm is enough according to our master chimney sweep.
We installed double layers of fire-rated drywall at the transition between the 1st and 2nd floors, and then it's cast against the floor joist. We've also exposed the wall base on the upper floor for more heat comfort. Previously, it seems they placed planks directly against the chimney, and our house has stood since 1928, but that might be due to luck. A tar fire in the flue can quickly reach 1000 degrees, so it's essential to have good insulation.
Hi, some feedback.
After some consideration, we called the municipal chimney sweeper who sent out a guy who did a "mapping" and gave sensible advice. After 1800 pix (what you can't do, you have to pay for), we got a bit wiser.
I don't know if this applies to all municipalities, but with us, it seems to be only the FLUE that has this restriction on distance to combustible material, i.e., it doesn't apply to the entire chimney, just the channel where smoke comes through. He suggested that we should install a "smoke gas hose surrounded by warmingculit" to further insulate it (the channel was apparently quite large). Then we would be able to build with wood against it.
Apparently, there were no problems tiling directly on the chimney on the side that becomes the bathroom. It was just an additional insulating layer (someone else said it over the phone earlier, from the same company).
Hope this is correct because it sounded good..
Thanks everyone for the comments so far.
After some consideration, we called the municipal chimney sweeper who sent out a guy who did a "mapping" and gave sensible advice. After 1800 pix (what you can't do, you have to pay for), we got a bit wiser.
I don't know if this applies to all municipalities, but with us, it seems to be only the FLUE that has this restriction on distance to combustible material, i.e., it doesn't apply to the entire chimney, just the channel where smoke comes through. He suggested that we should install a "smoke gas hose surrounded by warmingculit" to further insulate it (the channel was apparently quite large). Then we would be able to build with wood against it.
Apparently, there were no problems tiling directly on the chimney on the side that becomes the bathroom. It was just an additional insulating layer (someone else said it over the phone earlier, from the same company).
Hope this is correct because it sounded good..
Thanks everyone for the comments so far.