Hello,
Due to the company that cast my basement being careless, I am now in a situation where I need to shim up my house for the floor slope to meet the requirements in HUSAMA.
The sill plate is 95mm wide and made of wood. We have calculated that approximately 30cm of shims per meter is needed to handle long-term loads (suggested a shim plate 10x10cm every 30 cm).
My question is: Are there any plastic shim plates that are age-resistant and can withstand 1.15MPa long-term load? Or do we need to start planing wood?
Due to the company that cast my basement being careless, I am now in a situation where I need to shim up my house for the floor slope to meet the requirements in HUSAMA.
The sill plate is 95mm wide and made of wood. We have calculated that approximately 30cm of shims per meter is needed to handle long-term loads (suggested a shim plate 10x10cm every 30 cm).
My question is: Are there any plastic shim plates that are age-resistant and can withstand 1.15MPa long-term load? Or do we need to start planing wood?
Member
· Västernorrland
· 12 020 posts
Can't an extra overlay be done then?
Diversearbetare
· Göteborg
· 11 189 posts
Exactly. There is concrete for machine grouting or repair concrete that should solve the problem. Is it due to lack of time?S Stefan1972 said:
Pouring/patching would have been the best option. But if we are going to access pouring/patching, we will likely have to lift the house much more significantly than its final position to get access. And that increases the risk that our brand new bathroom (tile/clinker) will need to be redone 
Or is there some clever way?
The problem with the foundation is that it has two high stretches/points, so the entire house except those two sections must be lifted to make it even. It's about ~16mm.
No direct time pressure, I just don't see how you practically carry out extra pouring, but I'm open to suggestions.
Or is there some clever way?
The problem with the foundation is that it has two high stretches/points, so the entire house except those two sections must be lifted to make it even. It's about ~16mm.
No direct time pressure, I just don't see how you practically carry out extra pouring, but I'm open to suggestions.
Member
· Västernorrland
· 12 020 posts
Oh, it wasn't clear that the house is already built............So it hasn't been noted even once during construction that the entire house is on uneven ground?
@Stefan1972 The house is a volume house and comes ready from the factory (Hjältevadshus) so it only took one day to lift into place. I discovered the problem when I started measuring the floors on the ground floor.
I should have of course double-checked the foundation before house assembly, but since the foundation contractor provided a measurement protocol as part of the self-inspections where everything looked okay, I didn't do it.
@DTanner okay, but then you would need to build some kind of form so the concrete stays on top of the wall. And then you need to get the sill insulation in somehow.
I should have of course double-checked the foundation before house assembly, but since the foundation contractor provided a measurement protocol as part of the self-inspections where everything looked okay, I didn't do it.
@DTanner okay, but then you would need to build some kind of form so the concrete stays on top of the wall. And then you need to get the sill insulation in somehow.
I personally think it's still a bit unclear. So, is the base plate and the basement walls cast, and is the wooden framework of the house mounted on this?
You say it differs by 16 mm. Where? It's relatively little in the context - what is actually the problem? Is the difference in level 16 mm on the finished floor?
You say it differs by 16 mm. Where? It's relatively little in the context - what is actually the problem? Is the difference in level 16 mm on the finished floor?
@C.Lundin The current situation is that the basement is cast, both the walls (Thermomur 350) and the slab. And the two-story house is standing on the foundation. What remains to be done on the house before moving in is some plastering/painting, floors, and the kitchen. (which I am working on).
The level differences on the finished floor are 16mm (between the highest and lowest points which are 7 meters apart). The worst spot is 11mm over 2.5 meters which is far above the tolerances in HUSAMA (L/600, min 8, max 20).
Grouting is absolutely interesting if it has advantages over just using bearing plates between the foundation (on top of the sill insulation) and the sill. (and is reasonably priced)
As I have reasoned so far: The long-term line load according to the house manufacturer is max 33 kN/m and the sill can withstand a bearing pressure of 1.15 MPa under these conditions. This means that I need a contact area of 33/1.15 = 287 cm2 per meter for the sill to withstand the load. The sill is 95mm wide so it should be sufficient with 3 pieces of 10x10 cm bearing plates per meter. Since the sill is the limiting factor, there is no point in the bearing plates tolerating significantly more pressure.
So the original question is, are there any bearing plates suitable for this purpose?
The level differences on the finished floor are 16mm (between the highest and lowest points which are 7 meters apart). The worst spot is 11mm over 2.5 meters which is far above the tolerances in HUSAMA (L/600, min 8, max 20).
Grouting is absolutely interesting if it has advantages over just using bearing plates between the foundation (on top of the sill insulation) and the sill. (and is reasonably priced)
As I have reasoned so far: The long-term line load according to the house manufacturer is max 33 kN/m and the sill can withstand a bearing pressure of 1.15 MPa under these conditions. This means that I need a contact area of 33/1.15 = 287 cm2 per meter for the sill to withstand the load. The sill is 95mm wide so it should be sufficient with 3 pieces of 10x10 cm bearing plates per meter. Since the sill is the limiting factor, there is no point in the bearing plates tolerating significantly more pressure.
So the original question is, are there any bearing plates suitable for this purpose?
Best answer
Homeowner
· Klagshamn
· 285 posts
Plastic is generally not very good when it comes to long-term load due to creep, but of course, it depends on the type of plastic as some types are better than others, but there is a risk when you're going to place an entire house on it.
@Snappahaneklanen Ok, thanks. Now, 1.15MPa doesn't really feel like a huge pressure, but I need to read up on creep. So steel or wood are the safe alternatives then?
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Is this really a problem? Do you realize the problems this will bring with cracks in the surface layer and more? The easiest would be to lift the floor and self-level with screed instead.
@falkn It's a brand new house that I've invested my life savings in; if I wanted something crooked and uneven, I would have bought an older house. As I see it, the tolerances exist for a reason. It's not just the floors; the walls also tilt more than HUSAMA allows because of this. I can live with redoing the surface finishes, but what I'm worried about is the tiles and waterproofing in the bathroom.
He hasn't fixed any of the 20 or so issues that caused his contract to fail, and there are less than two weeks left until the reinspection. I hope the money I've withheld will be enough to cover this.
He hasn't fixed any of the 20 or so issues that caused his contract to fail, and there are less than two weeks left until the reinspection. I hope the money I've withheld will be enough to cover this.
If it's only the floor you're "worried" about, I would definitely leave it as is. 16 mm is nothing over an entire floor. Starting to lift the house now will definitely cause more problems.
Sure, there's AMA—but if you plan to fix it yourself, there's no reason to be so meticulous about following it?
Sure, there's AMA—but if you plan to fix it yourself, there's no reason to be so meticulous about following it?