Hello!
Three months ago, I removed fire-damaged tongue and groove board from an interior wall and replaced it with new.
Now when I was about to apply drywall, I see that EVERY tongue and groove board has warped like the letter "U" where the outer edges are twisted outward.
What did I do wrong?
The wood is "17x95 Tongue and Groove Pine/Spruce" and bought at Beijer. It looked great when I bought it.
I joined the tongue and groove and nailed it with "Gunnebo nails plain 2.0 x 50" about 2 cm in from the edges.
It would be good to know what I did wrong so I can avoid repeating it.
Regards,
Carl-Johan
Three months ago, I removed fire-damaged tongue and groove board from an interior wall and replaced it with new.
Now when I was about to apply drywall, I see that EVERY tongue and groove board has warped like the letter "U" where the outer edges are twisted outward.
What did I do wrong?
The wood is "17x95 Tongue and Groove Pine/Spruce" and bought at Beijer. It looked great when I bought it.
I joined the tongue and groove and nailed it with "Gunnebo nails plain 2.0 x 50" about 2 cm in from the edges.
It would be good to know what I did wrong so I can avoid repeating it.
Regards,
Carl-Johan
They were probably a bit damp and now that they are inside and the humidity is at its lowest, they have dried faster on the side facing the room and thus shrunk and warped... they should straighten out once they dry through.
/ATW
/ATW
How long will that take? I guess I have to wait before plastering?
I agree with elkludde, I also think the nail seems a bit too weak ...
Was it moreover plain or electro-galvanized? Hot-galvanized performs significantly better.
Was it moreover plain or electro-galvanized? Hot-galvanized performs significantly better.
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What should I do now? Tear down and redo it properly or what?
Alternatives
1) Drive a 60 x2.3 hot-dip galvanized beside the short ones, they usually come out so you can remove them
2) Drive in a 75x28 one in each board at the edge, then it holds the next, but e are quite hefty nails on the other side they sit
3) Screw a screw such as a 55 mm decking screw, same system as with 75x28
Disadvantage with screws is that they tend to eat into the wood without pulling in when there is tension there
1) Drive a 60 x2.3 hot-dip galvanized beside the short ones, they usually come out so you can remove them
2) Drive in a 75x28 one in each board at the edge, then it holds the next, but e are quite hefty nails on the other side they sit
3) Screw a screw such as a 55 mm decking screw, same system as with 75x28
Disadvantage with screws is that they tend to eat into the wood without pulling in when there is tension there
But the rule is only 45 thick...
Shouldn't I calm down until the other side has dried and it might straighten itself out as "ArneTW" suggests?
Shouldn't I calm down until the other side has dried and it might straighten itself out as "ArneTW" suggests?
For the nail gun, there are 50x2.8 mm nails, I would have taken those. But I do have a nail gun.
You did nothing wrong, it's the råspont that's the problem. If you had let them dry before putting them up, they would probably have warped and been difficult to install. If you get wood from freshly sawn timber, this happens. Likely, the boards will dry out so that the tongue and groove will come loose. I think you should complain. I would have chosen OSB instead, but råspont should also work. I think you can let it dry for a while and then screw the gypsum in without any other measures.
If purchased at a lumber yard, the wood is usually dried but a certain moisture remains. However, as Fixar Krille points out, the wood warps when it dries and shrinks but 50x25 polished doesn't hold anything. They come out very easily.
I realized it matters how you turn the tongue and groove board; the outside should be facing in. In most cases, it then bulges out in the middle. It's important to always place them the same way because the tongue is asymmetrical.
I realized it matters how you turn the tongue and groove board; the outside should be facing in. In most cases, it then bulges out in the middle. It's important to always place them the same way because the tongue is asymmetrical.
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Yes, I realize that in hindsight... but the tongue shouldn't look like it does.
Core side inward to the room, in other words, right? I didn't think of that. I just made sure to fit the replaced tongue against the existing one when I patched and repaired two fire-damaged walls. On one wall it's inward, and on the other outward, yet they have both warped in the same way. Interestingly, the original tongue from 1946 is PERFECT.
I bought some studs at the same time for a future project, 75x45. They were straight and nice when I bought them. They've been stored on a flat surface indoors, but now they look like bananas. Is it the same problem; that they weren't dried enough?
I can't figure out this wood thing! I thought Beijer had good shit! How do I know when I'm at a lumberyard that it's dried?
But tongue and groove is better (when it's straight and nice)
No, if it had been like in Great-Grandpa's time, that is the good old days when the raw planks were taken from the surface boards, they were only planed on the side that wasn't full-edge. Then they were put up with the planed side inward to get a whole outside, in other words, the core side outward, which was unplaned. If they warped, they became convex, so you attach the plasterboard in the middle of the board so that the plasterboard doesn't crack.