What are you sizing against?
One hell of a plank by the way!
One hell of a plank by the way!
Contact a constructor.
Now someone grumpy might come and say that there are people who know this on the forum. But I haven't even seen an embryo of dimensioning at all here yet.
Now someone grumpy might come and say that there are people who know this on the forum. But I haven't even seen an embryo of dimensioning at all here yet.
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· VĂ€sternorrland
· 12 010 posts
The question is somewhat vague. Is the measurement the space available to use or is there something in that dimension today? Wood in that dimension is likely glulam regardless.
What does the statement about 75x350 come from? Glulam is in any case much stronger so if you take the same or slightly under, it's fine. However, I would not change load-bearing walls in a house on a whim... it could get expensive.
Assuming the strength of a "plank" in a coarser dimension is impossible without more details. Is it something from the local sawmill you have? There's an incredible difference between a coarse knot-free "plank" in oak compared to one in fast-growing aspen or other lighter hardwoods. Even with coniferous wood, the strength can be significantly affected by how you have potential knot holes, especially if you have knot holes on each edge.
Do you have any pictures of these? Damn, what planks! Thick and wide and knot-free. Are they without mÀrg too?
You will have difficulty getting a correct dimensioning as it is based on classified timber, I guess these are "farmer-sawn" planks.T TommieK said:
It is not suitable to make modifications to load-bearing structures without dimensioning.
If you still want to do it, you can use the guide from svensk trÀ. Assume that your plank is equivalent to about a 56x270 glulam, no more.