Hello
In the garage, I'm going to have 45-degree moldings with LED lighting, essentially traditional triangular trim that you might have on your fascia boards.
However, these tend to be a bit too coarse for indoor use unless you sand them first.
So what should I do?
1: Are there moldings that look like these that I can find and use?
2: Should I buy this triangular trim and go to town with sandpaper?
3: Or is it reasonable to bevel something like MDF or plywood that can then be filled and painted?
4: Should I buy crown molding with a similar shape, like in the picture, and attach the strip in the "gap"?
We're talking about a total of 40 meters.
Thanks for the tips!
In the garage, I'm going to have 45-degree moldings with LED lighting, essentially traditional triangular trim that you might have on your fascia boards.
However, these tend to be a bit too coarse for indoor use unless you sand them first.
So what should I do?
1: Are there moldings that look like these that I can find and use?
2: Should I buy this triangular trim and go to town with sandpaper?
3: Or is it reasonable to bevel something like MDF or plywood that can then be filled and painted?
4: Should I buy crown molding with a similar shape, like in the picture, and attach the strip in the "gap"?
We're talking about a total of 40 meters.
Thanks for the tips!
Member
· Nuevo Estockholmo
· 3 529 posts
Look for some nice 45x45 that you split at a 45-degree angle.
Yes, that sounds reasonable. Maybe it's time to buy a table saw as well, I've been thinking about it for years. Otherwise, this is likely to be a tough project, I guess. I have a plunge saw which would solve the problem adequately though.hantverkare1 said:
Thanks for the tips!
Member
· Nuevo Estockholmo
· 3 529 posts
A plunge saw works, and even a regular circular saw works, but ideally, it would be best to buy a table saw. If nothing else, just for the sake of it👍
Or he can buy a ready-made triangular batten for 8.95 kr per meter. Not a killer price or anything.hantverkare1 said:
https://www.byggmax.se/virke/reglar/50x50-trekantsregel-p08191050
Because I assume (really a wild guess), that he won't get much better finish with a standard blade on a table saw. Or are they so roughly cut at the factory that you'll have to sand endlessly?
TIPS:
In all honesty, it's almost more convenient to buy a ready-made triangular batten as per the link above (for example), screw together a jig in 15 minutes where the triangular batten can rest nicely, then use a cheap electric planer to run over the cut surface.
Because it's not at all certain that he'll get the result he wants even with a 60-tooth blade on his newly purchased table saw.
Yes, if they are available in the right size, it's even more convenient.MrElliott said:
However, if it costs around 50 SEK per meter, it's probably better to do as I suggested with the electric planer, because for the 40 lpm that TS needs, it would be 40x40=1600 SEK cheaper, and for that, he can buy an electric hand planer, provided he doesn't already have one.
And then he either gets the planer essentially for free (with a bit of extra work for the planing), or he has about 1600 SEK left for something else fun
Because I assume he's not buying nicely planed triangular molding for 8.95 SEK per meter?
http://www.beijerbygg.se/store/priv...antlister/trekantlist-furu-27x27mm-obehandlad
Slightly larger trim for around 600:-, 40 lm.....
Slightly larger trim for around 600:-, 40 lm.....
It would be fun if you'd like to describe how you plan to install these moldings and the lighting!tobbew said:
Are they going to be placed in the wall/ceiling angle around the garage, or how have you planned it?
tobbew, if you are planning lighting along the molding, or above, or however it's intended, I want to recommend that you look especially at American sites for that sort of thing. They have a lot of that in their homes nowadays. Google "cornice lighting" for example, and you'll get good tips. There are some pages that describe how it's constructed. Maybe you'll find a method that surprises you in a positive way? It can't hurt to take a quick look
Hello
Thanks for the tips! I'm going to set them at a 45-degree angle, right in the middle of the angle. It seems to be successful according to those who have tried, from what I've heard.
Here is an example of how "lillburt" on the forum has done it:
I would like to get it roughly the same. More info in this thread:
https://www.byggahus.se/forum/smahus-garage-friggebod-m-m/188745-belysning-i-nybyggt-garage.html
Ceiling Moldings
The plan now is to put up a molding along the long sides of the double garage, which are about 12 meters. The garage is separated by a glue-laminated beam in the middle, which hangs down a bit, so the moldings should be placed on both sides of both "lanes" (for lack of a better word), i.e., four lines that are around 12 meters.
For the shorter sides, which are about 8 meters, I haven't really decided yet, but I don't think I'll use this solution for them, instead, it will probably be a regular straight molding without lighting.
LED Strips, Two (Three) Circuits
I will get high-intensity LED strips and as Martin_B suggests, they will be imported. I haven't chosen a model yet, but there are others here in the forum who have recommended some really nice stuff.
There are 4 rows of 12 meters, which will likely result in 8 pieces of 5-meter strips.
The plan is also that they will run on three different circuits, it's quite well thought out:
1) Motion Sensor: One strip, which lights up so that you can easily navigate between the door and the car.
2) Regular switch on the wall: 7 others, the rest of the garage. Used when working inside or cleaning, etc. Probably not even used every month.
3) Possibly, there will be an additional LED strip above the workbench at the far end of the garage. I imagine it's centered in depth over the bench, about 30 cm from the rear wall. This will have its own switch that you turn on when working on any bench work. There's no point in lighting up 90 other square meters just to be at the bench.
That's how I'm thinking - but I'm not quite there yet.
Thanks for the tips! I'm going to set them at a 45-degree angle, right in the middle of the angle. It seems to be successful according to those who have tried, from what I've heard.
Here is an example of how "lillburt" on the forum has done it:
I would like to get it roughly the same. More info in this thread:
https://www.byggahus.se/forum/smahus-garage-friggebod-m-m/188745-belysning-i-nybyggt-garage.html
Ceiling Moldings
The plan now is to put up a molding along the long sides of the double garage, which are about 12 meters. The garage is separated by a glue-laminated beam in the middle, which hangs down a bit, so the moldings should be placed on both sides of both "lanes" (for lack of a better word), i.e., four lines that are around 12 meters.
For the shorter sides, which are about 8 meters, I haven't really decided yet, but I don't think I'll use this solution for them, instead, it will probably be a regular straight molding without lighting.
LED Strips, Two (Three) Circuits
I will get high-intensity LED strips and as Martin_B suggests, they will be imported. I haven't chosen a model yet, but there are others here in the forum who have recommended some really nice stuff.
There are 4 rows of 12 meters, which will likely result in 8 pieces of 5-meter strips.
The plan is also that they will run on three different circuits, it's quite well thought out:
1) Motion Sensor: One strip, which lights up so that you can easily navigate between the door and the car.
2) Regular switch on the wall: 7 others, the rest of the garage. Used when working inside or cleaning, etc. Probably not even used every month.
3) Possibly, there will be an additional LED strip above the workbench at the far end of the garage. I imagine it's centered in depth over the bench, about 30 cm from the rear wall. This will have its own switch that you turn on when working on any bench work. There's no point in lighting up 90 other square meters just to be at the bench.
That's how I'm thinking - but I'm not quite there yet.
Well informed, but I roughly understand what you mean.
The example where you insert an image seems to have a substantial triangle "strip," but you're supposed to have a slightly narrower one, i.e., about a 45 split diagonally?
If you want one as wide as the one in the picture, it's easier to bevel a 22x120 on both sides so that the planed side becomes the widest and thereby the one that ends up outward, so to speak. You then easily nail it to the wall and ceiling. On it, you can then mount LED strips in the way you desire. If you want a slightly narrower triangle "strip," you can use a 22x95 instead, or 22x70, but if you want the latter, you might as well bevel a 45 or buy a triangle strip that is in that size. However, the cut surface then becomes more like rough-sawn unless you have a very fine blade and a very stable and good rip saw.
It's not entirely easy to perfectly bevel like that without getting circular marks from the blade when the piece you're cutting shifts. Or you need to have support and keep it under tension, etc.
It's easier to go with 22-lumber as I mentioned, because then the cut surface doesn't matter since it ends up against the wall and ceiling and thus becomes invisible.
The example where you insert an image seems to have a substantial triangle "strip," but you're supposed to have a slightly narrower one, i.e., about a 45 split diagonally?
If you want one as wide as the one in the picture, it's easier to bevel a 22x120 on both sides so that the planed side becomes the widest and thereby the one that ends up outward, so to speak. You then easily nail it to the wall and ceiling. On it, you can then mount LED strips in the way you desire. If you want a slightly narrower triangle "strip," you can use a 22x95 instead, or 22x70, but if you want the latter, you might as well bevel a 45 or buy a triangle strip that is in that size. However, the cut surface then becomes more like rough-sawn unless you have a very fine blade and a very stable and good rip saw.
It's not entirely easy to perfectly bevel like that without getting circular marks from the blade when the piece you're cutting shifts. Or you need to have support and keep it under tension, etc.
It's easier to go with 22-lumber as I mentioned, because then the cut surface doesn't matter since it ends up against the wall and ceiling and thus becomes invisible.
The only thing that really matters to me is that the molding is about as smooth as the painted plaster on both the walls and ceiling.
Right now, I'm considering heading to Byggmax (which is the only nearby option) to buy a regular triangular strip (as they call it) and sand the angle. But we'll see. I don't mind if the molding is quite narrow; on the contrary, it feels practical.
ps: I've now ordered!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5M-SMD-RGB-...hash=item3aa0622864:m:mgaOQPEdpABT1Whqfxr_r6A
2 pieces of 5050 5-meter, warm white, 600 LEDs per meter. I'm testing a bit, and if they seem to be good and have a pleasant light, I'll order 6 or 7 more.
I haven't checked on the transformer yet, but I'll probably buy that from Sweden. It will be two or three. In practice, I could have one transformer, then split the circuit into three afterward, as I've seen some electricians do. But I believe more in separating before, so that the transformer isn't constantly consuming. Feels wrong.
Right now, I'm considering heading to Byggmax (which is the only nearby option) to buy a regular triangular strip (as they call it) and sand the angle. But we'll see. I don't mind if the molding is quite narrow; on the contrary, it feels practical.
ps: I've now ordered!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5M-SMD-RGB-...hash=item3aa0622864:m:mgaOQPEdpABT1Whqfxr_r6A
2 pieces of 5050 5-meter, warm white, 600 LEDs per meter. I'm testing a bit, and if they seem to be good and have a pleasant light, I'll order 6 or 7 more.
I haven't checked on the transformer yet, but I'll probably buy that from Sweden. It will be two or three. In practice, I could have one transformer, then split the circuit into three afterward, as I've seen some electricians do. But I believe more in separating before, so that the transformer isn't constantly consuming. Feels wrong.
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