Hello!

Now that it's starting to feel a bit like spring in the air (at least here in Stockholm), a matter I've pondered before has resurfaced.

Our deck is a few years old and has some flaws. Partly, time has left its marks of course, but it also has some purely technical flaws from when it was built.

1. The gaps are far too narrow, sometimes nonexistent, so the slightest dirt clogs them and prevents water from draining away.

2. Where the deck narrows, the person who built it didn't align the boards with each other, so the gaps on the wide part are offset by a few centimeters compared to the narrower part.

3. The screws are driven in way too deep, creating small wells where water collects.

There are also plans to build a wind/privacy screen, and that will require a bunch of planks to be unscrewed in order to install the screen's posts.

What I've been thinking about for quite a while is whether it would be possible to simply flip the boards so that the underside comes up instead. I've removed a few boards at one point, and the underside is in really good shape! The question is whether the stripes will fade over time, so to speak... it's quite clear where the boards have rested against the joists, and it wouldn't be very attractive if these stripes never disappear.

The advantages of doing it this way (if it can yield good results) compared to buying new wood are numerous. First and foremost, it's free, which is quite a big factor. Plus, I hate throwing away things that potentially still have life left in them, especially things that are harmful to the environment (which pressure-treated wood is). I won't have to pick up new wood from the hardware store and drive the old stuff to recycling. Virtually all the planks are already cut to size and just need to be flipped. Some of them I'll have to adjust because I want to increase the gaps, but that's only the ones closest to the house wall.

So what do you think? Is this a project that could yield good results? Perhaps someone has already done it and can share their experiences, especially regarding how the flipped planks look after a thorough cleaning and some time exposed to the elements.

Regards,
Fred
 
It turned out great! But that's not pressure-treated wood, right? And it looks like it might have been under a pergola roof? Not quite the same conditions we have, with a deck fully exposed to the elements in a southeast position.

How did the sanding work out? Was the surface rough, or did you sand it to make the appearance uniform? Didn't the edges become sharp?
 
Is printed lumber yes, from around 2000. It has been under a roof but was really "damaged" on the surface by all the oil and dirt.

I sanded to remove the marks from the beams they were on, then you can brag about Södermanland's smoothest wooden floor too. What edges are you thinking about?
 
I was thinking about the edges of the boards. They are a bit rounded from the start, and if you sand them, some of the roundedness disappears.

I understand that for a protected floor something needs to be done to remove the marks from the beams, but it would be interesting to hear if anyone has flipped their boards on a floor as exposed as ours if the elements can fix it without having to sand.
 
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Mikael Bjarnemark
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P Paxman said:
The edges of the boards I was thinking about. They are slightly rounded from the beginning, and if you sand them, part of the rounding disappears.

I understand that for a protected floor, something must be done to remove the marks after the joists, but it would be interesting to hear if anyone has flipped their boards on a floor as exposed as ours if the elements fix it without having to sand.
Well, I "skimmed" over it with the sander, no more than max 4 minutes per board so the rounding never disappeared.
 
Ah, I see! Did you use a belt sander or an orbital sander? Do you remember what grit paper you used?
 
Oscillating machine 40 + 80 paper I think it was
 
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Johniiboy and 1 other
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Thanks for the tip! Now I know what to do if the planks don't seem to get clean on their own.
 
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K_H and 1 other
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I
G ekaa88 said:
I "ran" over it with the sander, no more than 4 minutes per board so the rounding never disappeared
If it does disappear, you can easily fix it with sanding
 
I irihenke said:
If it disappears, you simply fix it with sandpaper
That would mean sanding a lot of meters of the edge...:p

Anyway, I've now tried turning two boards from either end of the deck.

When I lifted the first board, I felt a bit discouraged because the three spots that had been against the joists were very dark. However, I scrubbed the board with a scrubbing brush and soap and let it dry outside. The surface dried quickly, and a board that looked practically brand new emerged! The dark parts were still there, but they felt damp, and after a few more hours, they looked like the rest of the board! :D I don't think I'll need to sand anything. Possibly to soften the surface in some areas, but not to remove marks from the joists.

The deck is built very tightly, so all debris that manages to get into the minimal gaps stays there and effectively retains moisture. Therefore, I believe the end wood is thoroughly saturated with moisture, which is why the dark spots stayed for so long just there.

Of course, I'll post some pictures here in the thread so others can see how to extend the life of their old ugly deck without costing a penny, besides charging the screwdriver! (y)
 
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MartinAlx and 1 other
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P Paxman said:
That would be a lot of meters of edge to sand then...:p

Well, now I've tested flipping two boards from each end of the deck.

When I lifted the first plank I was a bit disheartened, as the three spots that had rested against the beams were very dark. However, I scrubbed the plank with a scrubbing brush and soap and let it dry outside. The surface dried quickly and revealed a plank that looks virtually brand new! The dark areas remained, but I could feel they were damp, and after a few more hours, they looked like the rest of the plank! :D I don't think I'll need to sand anything. Possibly to soften the surface in some spots, but not to remove marks from the beams.

The deck is built very tightly, so all debris that manages to get into the minimal gaps stays there and retains moisture effectively. Therefore, I believe the end grain is heavily saturated with moisture, which caused the dark areas to linger there for so long.

I will, of course, post some pictures here in the thread so others can see how to extend the life of their old, ugly deck without it costing a penny, other than charging the screwdriver! (y)
If you sand anyway, it doesn't matter.
 
I irihenke said:
If you sand anyway, it doesn't matter.
I didn't understand that...what doesn't matter?
 
I
P Paxman said:
I didn't understand that...what is it that doesn't matter?
If you have to sand anyway, it won't be any more work.
 
What doesn't become more work? It would help if you elaborated a bit more on what you want to convey...
 
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