I am going to install some profiled baseboards.
I have a feeling I read you can let one board be 90 degrees and then bevel the one that comes perpendicular, is that correct?
And how much should you bevel it then?
I have tried to bevel 45 and 45 degrees, but I never quite get it to look nice...
Hoping this method might be a bit more forgiving, very grateful for all responses.
I have a feeling I read you can let one board be 90 degrees and then bevel the one that comes perpendicular, is that correct?
And how much should you bevel it then?
I have tried to bevel 45 and 45 degrees, but I never quite get it to look nice...
Hoping this method might be a bit more forgiving, very grateful for all responses.
I might be slow, but if one is 90 degrees - how should one then turn the other? They would then end up at an angle to each other. The end of one strip would then bump into the other strip?
I know you can do this with crown molding but don't understand how it works with straight molding.
I know you can do this with crown molding but don't understand how it works with straight molding.
It can be a bit tricky to miter these. Make sure you set them up in the saw just as they will stand against the wall and then miter at 45 degrees. The allmoge baseboard might be higher than the saw's fence, causing it to tilt during cutting, resulting in an incorrect angle.
The alternative is, as naresjo writes, to leave one uncut, but then you must profile saw the one that meets the uncut strip, which was often done in the past.
The alternative is, as naresjo writes, to leave one uncut, but then you must profile saw the one that meets the uncut strip, which was often done in the past.
Often, it usually works well to cope the one baseboard against a completely straight cut baseboard. The one that needs to be coped must in any case first be miter cut at 45 degrees. I usually do this with the chop/miter saw with the baseboard flat against the table. Use the angling function instead of the miter function.
The rest I have explained as many times as possible here on the forum.
The rest I have explained as many times as possible here on the forum.
And, don't be tempted to use latex sealant in a poorly mitered corner. It will turn black and ugly after a while.
Can't even if I WANTED to use latex sealant...
the moldings are in pine (I don't think there is pine-colored latex or???)
I'll have to go home later and try until it turns out well.
How long should I let the moldings stay at room temperature before I start cutting?
They've been in the garage since summer.
the moldings are in pine (I don't think there is pine-colored latex or???)
I'll have to go home later and try until it turns out well.
How long should I let the moldings stay at room temperature before I start cutting?
They've been in the garage since summer.
It should be sufficient if you have a normally temperatured and dry garage.naresjo said:
The advantage of making the miters as you describe is that you can cut the moldings a bit longer than they should be to account for shrinkage.
I usually add ½ per mille (½ mm / meter of finished molding)
/V
If the baseboards are unpainted, you can prime them 1-2 times before installation and then cut them at a 45-degree angle, filling any gaps with latex caulk and smoothing with a suitable finger dipped in lukewarm water with a few drops of dish soap.
Before you finish painting the baseboard in place, you can fill any nail holes with fast wood filler so nothing is visible later if you want to look down and examine your work in the future
Latex caulk/acrylic is the best for hiding minor gaps and cracks, in my opinion, but luckily you can choose how you want to do it.
If you're staining, glazing, or leaving the baseboard untreated, you can try Mattiasp's suggestion.
Before you finish painting the baseboard in place, you can fill any nail holes with fast wood filler so nothing is visible later if you want to look down and examine your work in the future
Latex caulk/acrylic is the best for hiding minor gaps and cracks, in my opinion, but luckily you can choose how you want to do it.
If you're staining, glazing, or leaving the baseboard untreated, you can try Mattiasp's suggestion.
I found it... not so easy to find the one you've once seen
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i6bl2JK1OU4&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i6bl2JK1OU4&feature=related