Anyone tried tiling directly on plaster mortar?
I have a bumpy plank wall in the kitchen and limited space up to the faucet. So, I was thinking of creating a smooth surface with mortar instead of setting up boards. The question is whether it will hold for the tiles and if it will crack when the wall moves... the wall is made of 50 mm tongue-and-groove planks...
I have a bumpy plank wall in the kitchen and limited space up to the faucet. So, I was thinking of creating a smooth surface with mortar instead of setting up boards. The question is whether it will hold for the tiles and if it will crack when the wall moves... the wall is made of 50 mm tongue-and-groove planks...
Sounds like a bad idea.
Instead, put up a renovation plasterboard that you glue with suitable construction adhesive.
In addition to your mortar cracking, you need to think about which mortar you are using, the water in the adhesive must not dissolve what you've patched with.....
Instead, put up a renovation plasterboard that you glue with suitable construction adhesive.
In addition to your mortar cracking, you need to think about which mortar you are using, the water in the adhesive must not dissolve what you've patched with.....
Yes. That was my first thought, but I suspect the protrusions in the planks will crack the plaster. I could, of course, join the plaster at the sides of the protrusions to avoid shearing on the boards, but then the wall won't be straight...
Perhaps I might have to bring out the electric planer after all... I really want to avoid this, it's unfortunate to damage the wall if I want to expose it later...
Perhaps I might have to bring out the electric planer after all... I really want to avoid this, it's unfortunate to damage the wall if I want to expose it later...
You can "glue" renovation plasterboard (6mm) with plaster, it will be strong and nice as long as you make sure to cover everywhere on the back of the plasterboard. Watch out for "bulges" and pits!
I used a long level to press the plasterboard so it became reasonably flat when I did the same thing on damaged lightweight concrete walls.
I used a long level to press the plasterboard so it became reasonably flat when I did the same thing on damaged lightweight concrete walls.
That's probably what I'll do. The question is just how b4a bruket adheres to wood. Does anyone know?
Would be good not b4a 
Renovator
· Stockholm
· 20 845 posts
You can plaster only and tile on that, the problem is how to get it vertical without screed guides (You write that you have limited space). However, I think there are guides as low as 4mm (I have only used 6mm).
You fix the guides vertically with a spirit level, a few blobs of gypsum plaster are enough to fix.
You fix the guides vertically with a spirit level, a few blobs of gypsum plaster are enough to fix.
I know that bricklayers use masonite that they adhere to the mortar as guides sometimes when they plaster. That could probably work for me... a few mm of mortar behind the masonite should be enough... the wall is mostly uneven horizontally.
Renovator
· Stockholm
· 20 845 posts
Masonite is not exactly stable, can result in wobbly outcomes
It gets sucked into the mortar and becomes steady... should be new and straight...
Why not glue the repgipsen with fix? Another trick is to straighten the repggipsen in a few places to make it straight. Then drill x-number of appropriately sized holes and use foam sealant to make it stable
You can also shave down the worst bumps with the electric planer
You can also shave down the worst bumps with the electric planer
Renovator
· Stockholm
· 20 845 posts
Polish vertically and smoothly builds the least, and as I understand it, it was a requirement
edit: it will get sucked in and follow the wall, i.e., not straight, you need a stiff material
edit: it will get sucked in and follow the wall, i.e., not straight, you need a stiff material