tiles in the hallway

[noone70]

Hmm these seem more difficult/complicated than I had expected

I'll have to cut up the floor and see how it looks, and post pictures here so it turns out right.

renovations are always more complicated than one first thought

 

[berne88]

renovations always become more complicated than you first thought

Hehe No not all painting is easy besides I'm not that old, so it will probably come with the years

 

[noone70]

mmm, they come with age,,, and the bitterness

 

[berne88]

mmm, they come with the years,,, and the bitterness

Hm I'm only 23 for now, so they will surely come. I'm probably among the younger ones who've bought a house most likely

 

[berne88]

Do you have to put a border around? Or is it enough to just apply sealant at the edges, as I don't think it would look nice with a border all around.
Any other suggestions?

 

[berne88]

Do I have to use plaster? Or is the chipboard enough?

 

[noone70]

Particle board is enough.

 

[berne88]

Have a small problem I think.


There is a staircase in the hallway, is it safe to break up the floor? A buddy thought the staircase was resting on the floor?

But it feels like it must be screwed into the outer wall, so nothing should happen.

Can I check it in any way?

What I can do is screw in a couple of screws under the staircase so I know it's attached to a wall. Also thought about having a support underneath just in case.

Thoughts?

 

[hempularen]

The staircase likely rests partly on the floor. Regarding the particle board, you cannot normally lay tiles directly on it. I believe there is some form of adhesive that can be used on wood materials, but then also with special grout. Everything must be elastic. I think it's very uncommon to use it (and there is probably some reason).

Regarding the edge or joint around it. You can place a soft joint between the tiles and the wooden floor, i.e., silicone. It is available to purchase from the same product series as the regular tile grout, so the color matches.

 

[berne88]

The staircase probably rests partly on the floor. Regarding the notion that chipboard is enough, you can't set tiles directly on chipboard (normally). I think there might be some kind of adhesive that can be used on wooden materials, but also with special grout. Everything must be elastic. I believe it's very unusual for it to be used (and there must be some reason for that).

Regarding edging or grout around. You can apply a soft joint between tiles and wooden floor, i.e., silicone. It's available for purchase from the same product series as the regular tile grout, so the color matches.

No, it won't be tiles directly on the chipboard; instead, it's going to be leveled with filler then tiles on top.

Any more info about the staircase?

 

[berne88]

Now the floor is torn up, joists are in place, so now the insulation and chipboard should go on today, and start routing in it. The move is tomorrow.

Just one question when I should prime the chipboard, can the hose be in then? And prime on that too?

 

[berne88]

I've now encountered something unfortunate; in the hallway where they're supposed to lay tiles, it's not the most optimal place for measuring things, with a staircase against a radiator. So when I finally cut the chipboard to the right length, it wouldn't fit. I had to cut off a larger piece.

Now there's about 3-5cm where there's no chipboard, and it's right under the stairs. The next step is to use self-leveling compound.. but what should I do there?

I got a tip to pour lots of silicone/latex caulk in or use foam filler.

So please, what should I do?

 

[Hubbe2]

Where we lived before, I laid tiles in the entrance, directly on the chipboard. I added some powder to the adhesive and grout for some elasticity, then just went for it. Worked great. Not a single crack in the 5-6 years we lived there after that.
However, I did not have underfloor heating. Area approx. 1x1.5m.

 

[Nimajneb]

If the regulation is cc60 with 90x190 studs, what dimension should the noggings have and how close should they be placed?