now part of the renovation is done, but in the hall, I would like to lay tiles by the front door, it's about 1.5M long x 1M so it's not big.
currently, there are regular wooden floorboards (rough boards?) so how should I do it?
my thought was the following:
cut out a piece, check how it's framed, there should be at least about 30CC between the studs when laying tiles. then lay gypsum, but what should be used to seal all the edges? since I'm planning to use self-leveling compound as there will be water-borne underfloor heating, and then the tiles.
is it good or bad?
currently, there are regular wooden floorboards (rough boards?) so how should I do it?
my thought was the following:
cut out a piece, check how it's framed, there should be at least about 30CC between the studs when laying tiles. then lay gypsum, but what should be used to seal all the edges? since I'm planning to use self-leveling compound as there will be water-borne underfloor heating, and then the tiles.
is it good or bad?
Don't forget to install nogging between the joists and reinforce the self-leveling compound.
If you're going to have water-based underfloor heating, it's probably enough to have chipboard with grooves for the pipe instead of floor gypsum.
Joist 30cc and Install Nogging
Then add...
Chipboard
Pipe
Reinforce
Self-level
Tiles
If you're going to have water-based underfloor heating, it's probably enough to have chipboard with grooves for the pipe instead of floor gypsum.
Joist 30cc and Install Nogging
Then add...
Chipboard
Pipe
Reinforce
Self-level
Tiles
How should I lay the short pieces in between?
Since it's probably set at 60cc, how should I set at 30cc without having to take up the entire floor? Can I set them in the other direction? So it becomes "grid-like" or whatever you want to call it.
Since it's probably set at 60cc, how should I set at 30cc without having to take up the entire floor? Can I set them in the other direction? So it becomes "grid-like" or whatever you want to call it.
I have a similar case, but in a bathroom. Do you need a moisture barrier then?
I have beams at about 50 cc, planning to frame up and insulate first. In which direction should I frame up? Across the beams or across the boards? I think they are 28 x 140 mm.
I've never installed underfloor heating, but can you self-level directly on floor chipboard? But not in wet rooms, right?
I have beams at about 50 cc, planning to frame up and insulate first. In which direction should I frame up? Across the beams or across the boards? I think they are 28 x 140 mm.
I've never installed underfloor heating, but can you self-level directly on floor chipboard? But not in wet rooms, right?
You don't need to frame the entire floor, just remove a bit more than what you plan to tile. Place a cross brace between the joists a bit outside the area that will have tile, securing the new joist with a joist hanger against the cross brace. Then add cross braces between the old and new joists.berne88 said:
When you're done, call a heavy friend to come over and jump a bit. If it flexes too much, add more cross braces
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6.2.3 Other Spaces
In toilets, laundry rooms, and areas with water heaters that are not wet rooms according to the definition in chapter 2.1, the floor should be equipped with a waterproofing membrane system of the foil type (VTgF) or other approved waterproofing membrane system (VTg). The waterproofing membrane should be folded up on the wall at least 50 mm.
In toilets, laundry rooms, and areas with water heaters that are not wet rooms according to the definition in chapter 2.1, the floor should be equipped with a waterproofing membrane system of the foil type (VTgF) or other approved waterproofing membrane system (VTg). The waterproofing membrane should be folded up on the wall at least 50 mm.
Should I use plyfa to nog? I'm heavy myself, so I can handle thatnoone70 said:You don't need to furr the entire floor, just lift a bit more than the area you are going to tile. Place a nogging between the joists a bit outside the area that will have tiles, attach the new joist with a joist hanger to the nogging. Then nog between the old and new joists.
When you're done, call a heavy friend to come over and jump a bit. If it flexes too much, add more noggings.
I don't think you can get it to the same level as the existing floor. You need something that supports, most often using rman floor chipboard, and then plaster or leveling compound on it, the tiles must lay against a solid surface. So, I think the foundation will build at least 30-35mm from the top of the joists, and then an additional 10-15mm for tiles with adhesive.
What you might consider is whether it's possible to modify the floor joists that go under your surface, so you can "clear" away the joists there, and then build a new floor a bit lower, adjusting the height with leveling compound.
What you might consider is whether it's possible to modify the floor joists that go under your surface, so you can "clear" away the joists there, and then build a new floor a bit lower, adjusting the height with leveling compound.
You can place battens between the beams and lay the spån at the same height as the beams, then reinforce and float (no plasterboard) so you build at least the thickness of the spån less.