I want to build some shelves that will be 85 cm long and 40 cm wide. They will only be attached on the short sides. The shelves will be used for kitchenware. I would like to use ready-made white chipboard shelves but am concerned that they will sag in the middle; therefore, I don't know what dimension I need either for chipboard or for pine/fir.
Grundstött
· Halland
· 28 345 posts
Can you not imagine placing a small support pin in the middle of the shelves?
Tips:
I have four 80-centimeter (765x350) shelves where most of our tableware and glasses are stored, for about 12 place settings. Well, a lot and perhaps the heaviest, are at the bottom of the cabinet.
The shelves are made of tempered glass, 6 mm thick, IKEA standard fittings.
No visible sagging there
Tips:
I have four 80-centimeter (765x350) shelves where most of our tableware and glasses are stored, for about 12 place settings. Well, a lot and perhaps the heaviest, are at the bottom of the cabinet.
The shelves are made of tempered glass, 6 mm thick, IKEA standard fittings.
No visible sagging there
Books' wisdom tells me that 850 in 18mm attached at the end will bend if you load it heavily with porcelain. My built-in purely sensorimotor scales in my arms say that a substantial stack of porcelain can actually weigh a bit more than books. I move the brackets closer to C-C 600 when I set up shelves 800 t=18. Longer bracket distance causes deflection. If you must have that span, consider screwing a T-profile in steel from the underside – it makes a big difference for that span!
Tempered glass, I hadn't thought of that option. I'll look into it.
If I use an 18 mm wooden board, pine or spruce, shouldn't that be stiffer than the regular particle board shelves?
I've also seen 25 mm somewhere.
An option could be to try without a T-profile; it can always be added if needed. I want it to be as invisible as possible. I had planned to screw an L-bracket onto the short sides to place the shelves on since there are solid walls on both sides.
If I use an 18 mm wooden board, pine or spruce, shouldn't that be stiffer than the regular particle board shelves?
I've also seen 25 mm somewhere.
An option could be to try without a T-profile; it can always be added if needed. I want it to be as invisible as possible. I had planned to screw an L-bracket onto the short sides to place the shelves on since there are solid walls on both sides.
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 047 posts
If it doesn't bend right away, it will over time, it's been tested (you have to turn the shelves after a year or so). Solid wood works better, and 25 is better than 18.
Turn them over after a year or so, that was also a good tip, thanks
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