Member
· Stockholms Län
· 702 posts
Hi!
When I'm tearing down my old house, I see that they've used a lot of paper strips (about 5cm wide) for various applications.
They are about 1mm thick and sometimes they've bundled them together.
I haven't seen such for sale anywhere, but it would be good to have a set.
Does anyone know where one can buy this?
When I'm tearing down my old house, I see that they've used a lot of paper strips (about 5cm wide) for various applications.
They are about 1mm thick and sometimes they've bundled them together.
I haven't seen such for sale anywhere, but it would be good to have a set.
Does anyone know where one can buy this?
Is it added currently?
Could you use paper tape intended for spackling instead? Without spackling, of course!
https://www.byggmax.se/farg/spackel/pappersremsa-p30724
Could you use paper tape intended for spackling instead? Without spackling, of course!
https://www.byggmax.se/farg/spackel/pappersremsa-p30724
Member
· Stockholms Län
· 702 posts
It is old, pre-World War II. The spackelremsor are thinner, feels like they are too thin.
Would like an alternative to masonitremsor for various "finlir".
Would like an alternative to masonitremsor for various "finlir".
Member
· Västernorrland
· 12 029 posts
won't ordinary lumppapp work then?
Member
· västra götaland
· 92 posts
Outdoors, I used fiberboard strips (3.2mm. Thicker masonite is available) plastic shims (available in 2, 5, and 10mm as standard in building supply stores) and for thinner options, I cut strips from windproofing paper. These three alternatives due to the risk of mold. Black mold, or paper mold, is a risk if you use paper, cardboard, or paper outdoors. One of the worst molds you can get. Admittedly outdoors, but I still wouldn't want it.
Indoors, you can use the same as outside, but you can switch the windproofing paper for paper, cardboard, or paper. If you want to fine-tune with tenths indoors, it works well to cut up old milk cartons. Cardboard also works well; just remember that it flattens when tightened.
Tarry-smelling windproofing paper is not something you want indoors.
I always take leftover pieces of fiberboard or damaged boards and saw them into strips that are 45mm wide. You can either leave them long and break them as needed or cut them approximately 100mm long and put them in the bucket where you have plastic shims and wedges.
A tip from a seasoned pro when you need to align, for instance, a crooked wall by attaching studs or strips to the wall before adding new cladding or boards on top:
Choose a point on the wall, usually the one that sticks out the most, meaning the point closest to you.
If you are using 2x2, 45x45mm, nail or preferably screw the stud to this point.
If the point is, for example, at the top, use a level to make sure it is vertical in both directions, add enough fiberboard or similar so you can fasten it securely, keeping it vertical in both directions.
You'll likely want the stud fastened to the wall at more than these two spots. Instead of deciding on an exact measurement, like 500mm down, for a screw, take several fiberboard strips similar in thickness to the gap between the stud and the wall about 500mm down.
Insert the pieces without too much resistance. If it's too tight, replace with something thinner. It doesn't matter if it's too loose, as you then shift the bundle of pieces up or down until it fits snugly. THERE you place the screw.
This assumes the wall is crooked. If you move the pieces upward, the gap between the stud and the wall should change slightly so that the strips fit. Or downward, depending on which direction narrows.
The above works exactly the same way if you want to level up a floor, leaving the old floor in place. If the joists are visible, of course, screw and glue a new joist beside the old one; then you can precisely adjust the exact height.
And yes, I know that Masonite is a brand name...
Indoors, you can use the same as outside, but you can switch the windproofing paper for paper, cardboard, or paper. If you want to fine-tune with tenths indoors, it works well to cut up old milk cartons. Cardboard also works well; just remember that it flattens when tightened.
Tarry-smelling windproofing paper is not something you want indoors.
I always take leftover pieces of fiberboard or damaged boards and saw them into strips that are 45mm wide. You can either leave them long and break them as needed or cut them approximately 100mm long and put them in the bucket where you have plastic shims and wedges.
A tip from a seasoned pro when you need to align, for instance, a crooked wall by attaching studs or strips to the wall before adding new cladding or boards on top:
Choose a point on the wall, usually the one that sticks out the most, meaning the point closest to you.
If you are using 2x2, 45x45mm, nail or preferably screw the stud to this point.
If the point is, for example, at the top, use a level to make sure it is vertical in both directions, add enough fiberboard or similar so you can fasten it securely, keeping it vertical in both directions.
You'll likely want the stud fastened to the wall at more than these two spots. Instead of deciding on an exact measurement, like 500mm down, for a screw, take several fiberboard strips similar in thickness to the gap between the stud and the wall about 500mm down.
Insert the pieces without too much resistance. If it's too tight, replace with something thinner. It doesn't matter if it's too loose, as you then shift the bundle of pieces up or down until it fits snugly. THERE you place the screw.
This assumes the wall is crooked. If you move the pieces upward, the gap between the stud and the wall should change slightly so that the strips fit. Or downward, depending on which direction narrows.
The above works exactly the same way if you want to level up a floor, leaving the old floor in place. If the joists are visible, of course, screw and glue a new joist beside the old one; then you can precisely adjust the exact height.
And yes, I know that Masonite is a brand name...
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