Garden fixer
· Stockholm
· 188 posts
Hello,
We nailed the sill last weekend and the frame erection with rafters was completed during the week.
I covered everything in the garage with a tarp. And during the week, it rained a couple of times. Now when I uncovered it to start putting up the roof, I realized that a large puddle of water had formed in one place and another spot. So the sill has been standing in water (a few millimeters) for several days. Am I foolish if I put up the outer roof and hope that it can be dried out with a construction heater? Or does the sill need to be replaced?
I'm really worried if it needs to be replaced. Then it's just a matter of tearing everything down.
// Kristian
We nailed the sill last weekend and the frame erection with rafters was completed during the week.
I covered everything in the garage with a tarp. And during the week, it rained a couple of times. Now when I uncovered it to start putting up the roof, I realized that a large puddle of water had formed in one place and another spot. So the sill has been standing in water (a few millimeters) for several days. Am I foolish if I put up the outer roof and hope that it can be dried out with a construction heater? Or does the sill need to be replaced?
I'm really worried if it needs to be replaced. Then it's just a matter of tearing everything down.
// Kristian
Yep.
It is completely normal for the timber to get wet. It dries when it is under a roof. If it is really soaked, you can use a dehumidifier when the building is enclosed.
It is completely normal for the timber to get wet. It dries when it is under a roof. If it is really soaked, you can use a dehumidifier when the building is enclosed.
Garden fixer
· Stockholm
· 188 posts
Thanks for the quick responses. Now it feels calmer ☺
I'll continue building and throw in a building fan directed at the damp sill. And I'll set up a dehumidifier in the garage.
//Kristian
I'll continue building and throw in a building fan directed at the damp sill. And I'll set up a dehumidifier in the garage.
//Kristian
The risk is that the problem repeats when you park a wet and snowy car, as the drywall and wood behind it become damp if you don't have sloping towards the floor drain or door opening. A tip that is too late for the thread creator but which garage builders in the planning stage can adopt is to cast or build a 100mm plinth and place the walls on it. This also solves the issue of the outer panel being too close to the ground at the entrance.
Garden fixer
· Stockholm
· 188 posts
I've realized it now. As I've said, having redone everything, I've realized that a raised base would have been a clear choice. I find the slab odd. It's a foundation company that poured the slab. I think the slope away from the wall should be better.
Is there any moisture-resistant baseboard that can be installed and then sealed with silicone along the floor to prevent future water problems?
Is there any moisture-resistant baseboard that can be installed and then sealed with silicone along the floor to prevent future water problems?
What exposure class do you have for the concrete? A regular concrete floor poorly withstands saltwater from the car. It often requires some form of surface treatment, in conjunction with which you can level a slope from the wall. Even better, level a slope, lay tiles, and install a baseboard with tile slabs.
Do not know if you have plastered yet, otherwise the easiest is to replace the outermost plaster with Minerit and apply a sealant along the floor angle so you have a wall that can withstand a lot in terms of moisture.
Regarding concrete, one should have an XD concrete in a garage if driving a car in and out, especially during winter.