Hello.
I was installing a new door frame in a thin (~70 mm) interior wall made of aerated concrete (or something similar, did they have aerated concrete in the 60s?). I bought frame screws and matching aerated concrete plugs. Measured and drilled and hammered in the plugs. Then when I started screwing the frame in place, what I was a bit concerned about happened. The wall cracked and large pieces came off around a couple of the screws. I probably shouldn't have used frame screws+plugs in that thin wall. The old frame was nailed with large square nails.
Now to the big question. How on earth do I fix this? Can I somehow glue and clamp the loose piece? Is there any glue that can hold this kind of porous stuff? Can something be cast into it? Primarily, I just want the wall to look intact again from the front side. As for the door frame, I can probably forget about using the current holes in the frame, and will have to plug them and drill new ones, securing the frame to the wall with long nail plugs or similar. Attaching pictures of the mess.
 
  • Cracked lightweight concrete wall with holes and damage around screws from door frame installation.
  • Damaged wall with a visible crack and missing pieces around a door frame; the wall appears to be made of lightweight concrete.
Could probably glue the pieces back on, but the best is probably to polish them up with plaster or cement.
 
Any idea what kind of glue might work? Regular PL400 or equivalent? Or something specific for porous materials?

If I want to touch up with plaster, should I use plaster mortar then?
 
You should have used cut nails. http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_ProduktListingFlera.aspx?id=9882

I've just been working with a door frame in a lightweight concrete wall. (Had to remove the frame to install the parquet floor.) Unfortunately, the cut nails that Beijer sells are a bit too short. The ones that were in the frame were about 160 mm long. I pulled the nails out of the wall and knocked them out of the frame and then welded them together. I had no problem attaching the frame afterward. To be safe, I also used a little foam sealant. Do you have any nails left in the wall/frame?
 
Regarding the piece that has come loose, I'm not sure if it can be glued, but I have repaired some with Finja's Puts and Murbruk. In your case, I would have nailed a few 3-inch nails, watered, and repaired with plaster and the murbruk. The nails help keep the piece in place while the mixture sets.
 
uno83 said:
Any idea what kind of glue might work? Regular PL400 or equivalent? Or something special for porous materials?
No idea if PL400 works, but there's probably some glue that will hold. The easiest is still to plaster as JanneL wrote.
 
Thin joint adhesive or special mortar for lightweight concrete. If you look around a bit, you can even find it at Bauhaus. 25pix / kg or something in that range.
 
JanneL said:
You should have used klippspik. [link]

I recently worked on a door frame in a lightweight concrete wall. (I had to remove the frame to lay the parquet floor.) The klippspik sold by Beijer is unfortunately a bit too short. The one that was in the frame was about 160 mm long. I pulled the nail out of the wall and knocked it out of the frame, then welded them together. Had no problems securing the frame afterward. To be safe, I also used a bit of foam sealant. Do you have nothing left of the nail in the wall/frame?
Yep, that's how the old frame was attached. Both the frame and the nail are at the dump. The lightweight concrete package with frame screws was probably for slightly thicker walls :)
 
How many nails were used to attach the frame?
 
Four, I think. Possibly three if one was missing in one of the holes. On the other side of the frame, there's a wooden stud, so there's no problem there. It's only one side that needs to be fixed into the lightweight concrete.

Shouldn't one be able to drill for the longest available nail plug and insert the "plugs", put spacers, and nail the frame in place? But maybe cut nails are better? It seems like Gunnebo makes them 175 mm long, the question is where to find them.
 
The guy welded my nails. Send a PM with the address. I think I have two left.
 
Use programahylsa with lättbetongskruv.
 
You can glue the piece with regular tile adhesive. Water first. The risk is that it will be thicker than the original, of course. Then you can nail and permanently fix the frame with sealing foam.
 
S
Expanding foam is never good for windows and doors.
 
SBH said:
fogskum is never good for windows and doors
Why not?
 
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