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17 replies
technique for wall demolition
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hi all happy builders
I have started tearing down an interior wall, I know it doesn't have electricity in it or is load-bearing as it was put up by the previous owners.
What I am wondering, as I can't find any thread about it, is what technique is best for preserving the ceiling and floor fairly well but is also efficient for poor old me.
I started today with a reciprocating saw but it is incredibly heavy, I think, and I am taking out sections in the wall of 50x50 centimeters. I have about 2x3 meters of wall left and have done about 1x1 meter of wall. Are there any tips and tricks anyone wants to share?
EDIT:
the wall consists of plasterboard->chipboard->insulation->chipboard->plasterboard and is held up by wooden studs, no metal in the bottom or top.
I have started tearing down an interior wall, I know it doesn't have electricity in it or is load-bearing as it was put up by the previous owners.
What I am wondering, as I can't find any thread about it, is what technique is best for preserving the ceiling and floor fairly well but is also efficient for poor old me.
I started today with a reciprocating saw but it is incredibly heavy, I think, and I am taking out sections in the wall of 50x50 centimeters. I have about 2x3 meters of wall left and have done about 1x1 meter of wall. Are there any tips and tricks anyone wants to share?
EDIT:
the wall consists of plasterboard->chipboard->insulation->chipboard->plasterboard and is held up by wooden studs, no metal in the bottom or top.
Last edited:
I find it easiest to cut squares in the sheet material and break them off as needed. If you're willing to sacrifice a blade, use a circular saw/plunge saw. It's not particularly heavy....
I would have done as you did but made sure to only take the sheet material between the studs first, of course in pieces large enough so you can carry them. So that the studs + the small sheet pieces that are in front of the stud stay in place, then you remove the standing studs and finally, with caution, either unscrew or pry off the stud at the ceiling and the floor.
If nothing else, maybe you have a younger teenage relative or friends who can help you with the heaviest parts for a small fee?
If nothing else, maybe you have a younger teenage relative or friends who can help you with the heaviest parts for a small fee?
Are there circular saw blades that can cut screws as well?M Mathiasffs said:I would have done as you did but made sure to only take the sheet material between the studs first, of course in pieces large enough for you to carry them. So that the studs + the little sheet pieces in front of the stud remain, then you remove the standing studs and lastly carefully either unscrew or pry off the stud from the ceiling and the floor.
If nothing else, maybe you have a younger teenage relative or friends who can help you do the heaviest work for a small fee?
Are the teeth on the saw blade very fine or a bit coarser?
I usually find that my small battery reciprocating saw can struggle/take a long time with thicker walls/studs. When you borrow the carpenter's large saw, they usually cut like butter in sunshine.
I usually find that my small battery reciprocating saw can struggle/take a long time with thicker walls/studs. When you borrow the carpenter's large saw, they usually cut like butter in sunshine.
Pretty fine. As I mentioned, I bought blades that were supposed to work for both metal and wood. Maybe I should consider renting a slightly heavier one instead tomorrow.M Mathiasffs said:
It may be that the teeth are a bit small, if you take the wall as I described, you can often use teeth that are as large as on a handsaw, which are also made to handle a screw or two.
I use theseM Mathiasffs said:
https://www.clasohlson.com/se/Tigersågblad-BIM-S922HF-Bosch/p/40-9356-4
