If you take down the wall yourself, it will be more expensive with more steel. But if you bring in a contractor, the cut will cost more than the steel.
 
henke_benke said:
probably plastered then? have you started thinking about how you'll handle the demolition?
Ah exactly! That sounds reasonable.
I've been looking around a bit both on this forum and others, and didn't really make sense of all the options.
But I'm going to call a friend who works as a concrete driller and ask him what he recommends =)
Do you have suggestions? =)
 
Jarlingar Jarlingar said:
If you take down the wall yourself, it will be more expensive with more steel.
But if you bring in someone to make the opening, the opening will cost more than the steel.
Aha, that's how you're thinking!
But I will probably do the demolition myself!
Of course, there are additional costs for any materials, but that's the case whether or not the opening is made.
That's how I think anyway!
 
H
S sussens said:
Ah, but exactly! That sounds reasonable.
I've looked around a bit both on this forum and others, couldn't really make sense of all the options.
But I'm going to call a friend who works as a concrete driller and ask him what he recommends =)
Do you have suggestions? =)
unfortunately, then justus will just write that you're wrong.

make sure to cover everything in plastic, otherwise, you'll get dust all over the house.
 
If it's slaggblock or hålsten, rent a Hilti VC-20 and a TE-1000, don't forget a TE DRS-B too (y)

If you're going to saw down the wall, you might as well purchase the entire service.

//professional concrete driller
 
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Jarlingar Jarlingar said:
If it's slag block or hollow stone, rent a Hilti VC-20 and a TE-1000, Don't forget a TE DRS-B too (y)

If you're going to saw down the wall, you might as well buy the whole service.

//professional concrete cutter
I personally think the TE-1500 (just 4 joules more) but I think it hits better
 
For this job, the TE-1000 is better suited due to its lower weight. It is also slightly shorter.

The impact energy makes no practical difference here.

However, it vibrates a lot compared to the TE-1000..
It matters less for someone who only needs to do a single job in that case..
 
H
Jarlingar Jarlingar said:
For this job, the TE-1000 is better suited with its lower weight. It is also a bit shorter.

The impact energy doesn't make any practical difference here.

Then it vibrates like hell compared to the TE-1000..
Matters less for someone who is just doing a job though..
for a private individual who hasn't handled one before, the TE-800 is better. however, if you have used jackhammers before, then as mentioned, 1000 or 1500 is preferable.
 
Te-800 what kind of dinky toy machine is that.. :p;)
 
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Jarlingar Jarlingar said:
Te-800 what kind of dinky toy machine is that.. :p;)
You have to be nice at the beginning so they don't take a 3000 ;)
it's not great, did three floors with one like that.:sweat:
 
As for the span length of the steel beam, it is probably the compressive strength of the betonghålsten that determines it. Assume 5 MPa for betonghålsten. You already have a value for the support reaction.
 
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