A lot of talk about tape here! I'm using this one now while working on the garage, it's damn incredible at sticking, the same as many others have already recommended:
http://www.tectis.se/SE/Catalog/Byggsortiment/Byggtejp/01801100.html
Same brand the builders used in the house.
I've stapled everything, then I've taped the seams, even though it has overlapped in many cases, in some places it turned out just right so that the tape holds it together. I'm not sure if I should put an additional plastic sheet on top there, or if it will be okay once the beam supports it from underneath.
I haven't taped along the bottom against the floor, I'm not sure how I should handle that, should it be taped as well or do you just put on a drywall panel? Considering how meticulous I've been, it feels like it should be taped there too, but damn, it's going to use up a lot of tape then, probably 4 rolls.
Maybe you could run a silicone or acrylic sealant line?
http://www.tectis.se/SE/Catalog/Byggsortiment/Byggtejp/01801100.html
Same brand the builders used in the house.
I've stapled everything, then I've taped the seams, even though it has overlapped in many cases, in some places it turned out just right so that the tape holds it together. I'm not sure if I should put an additional plastic sheet on top there, or if it will be okay once the beam supports it from underneath.
I haven't taped along the bottom against the floor, I'm not sure how I should handle that, should it be taped as well or do you just put on a drywall panel? Considering how meticulous I've been, it feels like it should be taped there too, but damn, it's going to use up a lot of tape then, probably 4 rolls.
Maybe you could run a silicone or acrylic sealant line?
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Hello Dennis. According to recommendations for proper moisture sealing, the seam overlap should be 20-40 cm, depending on the size. Seams should always be taped. You can also clamp it, typically over studs, with another stud, but you must be very careful to seal the screw holes. If you both tape at the seam and clamp at the overlap, you will achieve good airtightness.
Answers to your questions:
- you should definitely cut large pieces of plastic and tape properly around where you have "areas that barely hold together".
- yes, you should tape at the floor, but it's not that simple to answer your question. The moisture barrier on the wall and ceiling must be continuous with the wall downward and the floor. The idea is that warm indoor air should not be able to penetrate the plastic anywhere at all. If warm humid indoor air penetrates your plastic, it can condense inside the outer wall, and since air naturally contains mold spores, they can grow freely in the condensed moisture that forms water in the wall. So yes, make sure you seal properly and separate outside from inside.
Things "going wrong" can happen, but primarily you should take large pieces of plastic and bridge the seams. We use a 40 cm overlap and taping as well as clamping where possible, and when it's not possible, sometimes double-sided tape is used instead (rox strip or other types of butyl tape). There are reference measurements that show how important this is and that leakage through just 1 mm in a house with overpressure can result in a significant flow of air per hour …. Better to do a good job today than to redo everything later
Answers to your questions:
- you should definitely cut large pieces of plastic and tape properly around where you have "areas that barely hold together".
- yes, you should tape at the floor, but it's not that simple to answer your question. The moisture barrier on the wall and ceiling must be continuous with the wall downward and the floor. The idea is that warm indoor air should not be able to penetrate the plastic anywhere at all. If warm humid indoor air penetrates your plastic, it can condense inside the outer wall, and since air naturally contains mold spores, they can grow freely in the condensed moisture that forms water in the wall. So yes, make sure you seal properly and separate outside from inside.
Things "going wrong" can happen, but primarily you should take large pieces of plastic and bridge the seams. We use a 40 cm overlap and taping as well as clamping where possible, and when it's not possible, sometimes double-sided tape is used instead (rox strip or other types of butyl tape). There are reference measurements that show how important this is and that leakage through just 1 mm in a house with overpressure can result in a significant flow of air per hour …. Better to do a good job today than to redo everything later
Heard elsewhere that it would be just as good to seal the plastic at the bottom with acrylic or silicone sealant. Apply it to the wooden beam and press the plastic so the sealant spreads out and adheres it, creating an airtight seal. Then the drywall covers everything. You didn't mention that instead of taping, that's the solution I prefer since I have a lot of sealant left over from the house anyway.
I don't think there will be overpressure, the garage should be ventilated naturally and heated to maybe a maximum of 10 degrees.
I don't think there will be overpressure, the garage should be ventilated naturally and heated to maybe a maximum of 10 degrees.
Hello.
I bought the Byggmax light blue transparent age-resistant tape, which is approved by Sitac according to the labeling. This is completely worthless for splicing and sealing the construction plastic. It looks good at first, but after a few days it comes loose where it's uneven, especially in corners and around windows. It seems like it requires pinching the seam with a sparse or rule, and it might not work everywhere. Unfortunately, I've bought about 30 rolls of these that I now can't use, which feels disappointing.
Since really good tape costs 200-250 SEK per 25m roll, it quickly adds up to a lot of money. I searched online and found a vapor barrier tape that seemed to work on most materials. The tape is called TACKOFLEX Dampfsperre Klebeband. I ordered it over the weekend from BefestigungsFuchs in Germany (http://www.befestigungsfuchs.de). It cost 8.89 Euros per 25m roll, and today Wednesday, DHL delivered the box with 50 rolls. I paid about 4500 SEK including shipping.
I just tested the tape at home at my desk, and it seems to be of the highest quality. It sticks together so tightly that it's hard to get it apart. So you probably need to plan before removing the protective strip and taping around windows, etc.
Over the coming weeks, I will replace the existing Byggmax tape with this one. I will also test taping where joists go through the vapor barrier. The tape is apparently supposed to work on everything, so I hope everything will go well.
I will report back later.
Best regards,
Anders
I bought the Byggmax light blue transparent age-resistant tape, which is approved by Sitac according to the labeling. This is completely worthless for splicing and sealing the construction plastic. It looks good at first, but after a few days it comes loose where it's uneven, especially in corners and around windows. It seems like it requires pinching the seam with a sparse or rule, and it might not work everywhere. Unfortunately, I've bought about 30 rolls of these that I now can't use, which feels disappointing.
Since really good tape costs 200-250 SEK per 25m roll, it quickly adds up to a lot of money. I searched online and found a vapor barrier tape that seemed to work on most materials. The tape is called TACKOFLEX Dampfsperre Klebeband. I ordered it over the weekend from BefestigungsFuchs in Germany (http://www.befestigungsfuchs.de). It cost 8.89 Euros per 25m roll, and today Wednesday, DHL delivered the box with 50 rolls. I paid about 4500 SEK including shipping.
I just tested the tape at home at my desk, and it seems to be of the highest quality. It sticks together so tightly that it's hard to get it apart. So you probably need to plan before removing the protective strip and taping around windows, etc.
Over the coming weeks, I will replace the existing Byggmax tape with this one. I will also test taping where joists go through the vapor barrier. The tape is apparently supposed to work on everything, so I hope everything will go well.
I will report back later.
Best regards,
Anders
I started a thread about different tapes this summer, but ran out of time...however, I can say that Byggmax, in addition to the blue crap tape, also has ESAB green flex tape in many stores for 129kr/roll. It is really, really good and actually better than T-flex. For example, I patched a big tear in my little guy's swim ring with this tape this summer, and even with long salty swims, it held absolutely tight
http://www.byggmax.se/verktyg/lim-tejp-och-fog/maskeringstejp/tatningstejp-aldersbestandig-sp-p21029
http://www.byggmax.se/verktyg/lim-tejp-och-fog/maskeringstejp/tatningstejp-aldersbestandig-sp-p21029
That tape was mentioned earlier in the thread and it's really great. When I compared Tacoflex with T-Flex (T-emballage), both were rolled on the same inner roll with the same print on the roll. So, the same tape...?Anders Stuve said:
I have used it throughout my build, and it sticks, even after nearly two years! Additionally, I bought Tacodecht to glue the plastic in hard-to-tape places and against the slab. I've concluded that Tacodecht was well-invested money.
I have some pictures with this tape in the project thread http://www.byggahus.se/forum/socialt-projekt/196446-casa-di-montagne-5.html?perpage=15#post1734643
I've concluded that I should have bought even more tape and glue...
Buy this instead:
Tesa Seal Flex 60073
If you buy a larger quantity, you should be able to get it down to 160-170:-/roll.
Assuming the glue doesn't affect the plastic, which I can't comment on, it's hard to find a tape that sticks better and holds better. It is also slightly thicker than T-flex, etc., which means it won't tear if you need to adjust a bit before it fully sets. Once it has set, it is nearly impossible to remove. I used it to hold a strip against a tile and now I can't remove the adhesive residue. I've tried everything including all solvents I had at home but nothing works! Sad with such a good tape in this particular case!
Tesa Seal Flex 60073
If you buy a larger quantity, you should be able to get it down to 160-170:-/roll.
Assuming the glue doesn't affect the plastic, which I can't comment on, it's hard to find a tape that sticks better and holds better. It is also slightly thicker than T-flex, etc., which means it won't tear if you need to adjust a bit before it fully sets. Once it has set, it is nearly impossible to remove. I used it to hold a strip against a tile and now I can't remove the adhesive residue. I've tried everything including all solvents I had at home but nothing works! Sad with such a good tape in this particular case!
Hello Aion!
I read your response to Dennis's question and I'm wondering how on earth you go about connecting the vapor barrier on the upper and lower floors.
I have a house with an unfinished upper floor that I'm now starting to furnish.
As far as I can see, I can't even access the vapor barrier currently on the lower floor.
I don't see how it's possible to connect them? How do you do that?
The only time I saw the lower floor's vapor barrier was when I cut open the hole for the stairs going up.
How do you manage with the vapor barrier then?
I read your response to Dennis's question and I'm wondering how on earth you go about connecting the vapor barrier on the upper and lower floors.
I have a house with an unfinished upper floor that I'm now starting to furnish.
As far as I can see, I can't even access the vapor barrier currently on the lower floor.
I don't see how it's possible to connect them? How do you do that?
The only time I saw the lower floor's vapor barrier was when I cut open the hole for the stairs going up.
How do you manage with the vapor barrier then?
I can confirm that Tacoflex tape is great. The adhesive sticks like a rock and the tape is also slightly flexible. I have used the tape in both sub-zero temperatures and over 15 degrees C, and it works just as well.
Best regards,
Anders
Best regards,
Anders
Let's let this long thread continue for a while.
I am about to buy tape for a 180m2 villa and about 100m2 garage, so I realize that it will be quite a few rolls.
From what I have been able to read in this and other threads, the T-flex/Tacoflex tape seems to be the thing.
https://www.befestigungsfuchs.de/Ba...-Dampfsperre-Klebeband-60-mm-25-m?action_ms=1
However, there are also many who have recommended Byggmax tape
https://www.byggmax.se/isolering/tätning/tätningstejp-åldersbeständig-sp-p21029#ReadMore
So the question is simply if anyone has actually compared these two against each other? Price-wise, they are roughly the same cost, but Byggmax is much easier to reach.
Furthermore, I am contemplating how much tape to order initially. I'm tossing around the idea of 25 rolls in my head. How many rolls did you use for YOUR construction?
I am about to buy tape for a 180m2 villa and about 100m2 garage, so I realize that it will be quite a few rolls.
From what I have been able to read in this and other threads, the T-flex/Tacoflex tape seems to be the thing.
https://www.befestigungsfuchs.de/Ba...-Dampfsperre-Klebeband-60-mm-25-m?action_ms=1
However, there are also many who have recommended Byggmax tape
https://www.byggmax.se/isolering/tätning/tätningstejp-åldersbeständig-sp-p21029#ReadMore
So the question is simply if anyone has actually compared these two against each other? Price-wise, they are roughly the same cost, but Byggmax is much easier to reach.
Furthermore, I am contemplating how much tape to order initially. I'm tossing around the idea of 25 rolls in my head. How many rolls did you use for YOUR construction?
First bought a box from befestigugs...... then recently some of the green ones from byggmax, not much of a difference really, don't know how many rolls one would need to buy from Germany for it to be cheaper than byggmax per roll?