This summer, we hired craftsmen to install a new facade on our house. It's a house from the early '30s with old vertical batten paneling, where the battens were removed and they installed a weather barrier, horizontal furring strips, and then new batten paneling on top of this.
Now some questions have arisen regarding the size of the battens, and I'm looking for some facts about what should be used and why. We ordered 28 mm furring strips, to which the experienced carpenter grunted a bit and commented that it was certainly the very minimum he could think of to install the paneling on. He thought anything smaller was not suitable to use at all, he would have preferred to go up a bit in dimension, but we agreed that 28 would be used anyway. Now there's suddenly 22 mm roofing battens behind the facade instead, and I'm a bit concerned, and would like to find some facts and information about dimensions and suitability.
Does anyone have links or additional information to contribute?
Now some questions have arisen regarding the size of the battens, and I'm looking for some facts about what should be used and why. We ordered 28 mm furring strips, to which the experienced carpenter grunted a bit and commented that it was certainly the very minimum he could think of to install the paneling on. He thought anything smaller was not suitable to use at all, he would have preferred to go up a bit in dimension, but we agreed that 28 would be used anyway. Now there's suddenly 22 mm roofing battens behind the facade instead, and I'm a bit concerned, and would like to find some facts and information about dimensions and suitability.
Does anyone have links or additional information to contribute?
28x70 has indeed been used as nail battens for many, many years so it works. I believe that nowadays the recommendation is 34mm instead.
That has varied over time.
22 mm was probably okay a few decades ago.
And before that, the air gap wasn't invented.
Now it's stated in the construction industry's building descriptions
page 3 of 142, point 10.
28x70 has probably become popular because it is used in other places, especially as sparse paneling in roofs and sloped ceilings indoors. It has become somewhat of a standard dimension, good for everything.
Ideally, however, the nail shouldn't go through the nail battens and perforate the wind protection if there's no support behind.
22 mm was probably okay a few decades ago.
And before that, the air gap wasn't invented.
Now it's stated in the construction industry's building descriptions
http://www.byggbeskrivningar.se/pdf...d=103&File=&Inline=103.pdf&Doc=Broschyr&Cid=0
page 3 of 142, point 10.
28x70 has probably become popular because it is used in other places, especially as sparse paneling in roofs and sloped ceilings indoors. It has become somewhat of a standard dimension, good for everything.
Ideally, however, the nail shouldn't go through the nail battens and perforate the wind protection if there's no support behind.
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If it is sufficient also depends on whether the nail goes into the material behind and how closely the 22 mm studs are placed.
Is the cover strip nailed with 4``?
To get the full benefit of a nail, it should penetrate 12 x the diameter into the underlying material, and in that case, 22mm battens are too thin.
For the function of the air gap, 22mm is certainly sufficient, so it won't be a risky construction.
Is the cover strip nailed with 4``?
To get the full benefit of a nail, it should penetrate 12 x the diameter into the underlying material, and in that case, 22mm battens are too thin.
For the function of the air gap, 22mm is certainly sufficient, so it won't be a risky construction.
Thanks for the links and opinions! The new facade is therefore on the old wooden facade, with a wind barrier and then 22 mm nail battens. I interpret this as meaning that if it is attached with nails that only go into the nail battens, it is actually a bit weak. If it is attached with longer nails, then they go through the wind barrier at each nail hole. Is that okay, or what could that mean?
My timber house has wind barrier, then vertical tongue-and-groove paneling directly on the wind barrier and batten. It's probably been there for 20 years. There's nothing wrong with the paneling except that it's cracked and dry here and there! So I wonder a bit why you need the air gap? Because you lay them horizontally anyway, so the air probably won't get further up than the first nail batten? Since it's hard for air to blow in from the sides? Or is it, as someone says, to prevent the nails from damaging the wind barrier?
But wait a minute. 34 mm nail batten? Then it is likely being used for the purpose of attaching the panel to it? The house wall consists of vertical studs, and in order to nail vertical panels, a strong nail batten is needed for the panels to have something to attach to.
However, if the function is only to create an air gap so that the panel can dry/breathe, such strong materials are not necessary. If nailing new panels on the old ones, I would have settled for 13-15 mm thick strips to move the new panels slightly away from the old ones. Using unnecessarily large amounts will only reduce the roof overhang, make the house look strange, and make the wall less protected.
However, if the function is only to create an air gap so that the panel can dry/breathe, such strong materials are not necessary. If nailing new panels on the old ones, I would have settled for 13-15 mm thick strips to move the new panels slightly away from the old ones. Using unnecessarily large amounts will only reduce the roof overhang, make the house look strange, and make the wall less protected.