Hello
Stopped by Beijer today and purchased a substantial batch of studs for the frame.
However, I noticed that many of the studs are banana-shaped one way or another, except for the ones that are screwed. The worst ones are, of course, sorted out. It doesn't matter if you lay them as sills or standing; if they "sink" 2cm in the middle, it becomes quite uneven.
But where is the limit, how straight should they be to create decent walls?
Stopped by Beijer today and purchased a substantial batch of studs for the frame.
However, I noticed that many of the studs are banana-shaped one way or another, except for the ones that are screwed. The worst ones are, of course, sorted out. It doesn't matter if you lay them as sills or standing; if they "sink" 2cm in the middle, it becomes quite uneven.
But where is the limit, how straight should they be to create decent walls?
One spends a little extra time at the lumber yard selecting straight lumber and complaining to the staff so they bring out another bundle when there are no acceptable boards left available.
Unfortunately.
It can even result in returns of unusable lumber. But one must have a bit of finesse.
Unfortunately.
It can even result in returns of unusable lumber. But one must have a bit of finesse.
There are quality requirements and different quality classes that it is sorted into.
http://www.traguiden.se/TGtemplates/popup1spalt.aspx?id=935&contextPage=925
But I have no idea what requirements are set at the detailed level.
But if you're not satisfied, you should talk to the lumberyard.
At the beginning of our construction, I gritted my teeth, grumbled, and suffered over poor timber. But then I reached my limit and complained and returned it. Yes, there were no problems at all, no discussion.
Aha, that's how it works, they deliver anything and hope it goes unchallenged.
But they willingly accept returns and deliver new ones.
But of course, you should have timber that is suitable for its intended use, otherwise, it's no good.
Keep in mind that timber you've bought should be built in fairly quickly; if it lies around for many weeks, it usually warps a little or a lot. As soon as the timber package is opened, almost all pieces begin to slowly twist/bend in some way.
And of course, you should buy from a quality construction supply store like Byggmax, forget places like Beijer bygg and XL-bygg. You know it's just rubbish they have. Even though they happen to get the timber from the same sawmills as Byggmax...
(the last part, irony)
http://www.traguiden.se/TGtemplates/popup1spalt.aspx?id=935&contextPage=925
But I have no idea what requirements are set at the detailed level.
But if you're not satisfied, you should talk to the lumberyard.
At the beginning of our construction, I gritted my teeth, grumbled, and suffered over poor timber. But then I reached my limit and complained and returned it. Yes, there were no problems at all, no discussion.
Aha, that's how it works, they deliver anything and hope it goes unchallenged.
But they willingly accept returns and deliver new ones.
But of course, you should have timber that is suitable for its intended use, otherwise, it's no good.
Keep in mind that timber you've bought should be built in fairly quickly; if it lies around for many weeks, it usually warps a little or a lot. As soon as the timber package is opened, almost all pieces begin to slowly twist/bend in some way.
And of course, you should buy from a quality construction supply store like Byggmax, forget places like Beijer bygg and XL-bygg. You know it's just rubbish they have. Even though they happen to get the timber from the same sawmills as Byggmax...
(the last part, irony)
Well, I have bought extra material to be able to sort out the bad ones and return them, I'd rather do it at home in peace and quiet
When we loaded at the lumber yard, the guy removed a few pieces that I didn't see were bad, on the other hand, he didn't remove one that was spiral-shaped, so I did.
I was mostly wondering where to draw the line for getting decent walls.
I'll check out the link I was given. And it says that it is a prerequisite that "The studs have acceptable straightness." Yes, thank you, I understand that too! But what is that? Surely there should be some kind of rule of thumb at least.
When we loaded at the lumber yard, the guy removed a few pieces that I didn't see were bad, on the other hand, he didn't remove one that was spiral-shaped, so I did.
I was mostly wondering where to draw the line for getting decent walls.
I'll check out the link I was given. And it says that it is a prerequisite that "The studs have acceptable straightness." Yes, thank you, I understand that too! But what is that? Surely there should be some kind of rule of thumb at least.
Last edited:
I have been thinking, but not gotten around to it, to try to have some "basic requirements" reported on the common quality classes. For example, to call the träguiden or träindustrierna.
The idea was then to present this here on the forum.
The idea was then to present this here on the forum.
What are you going to build?
Using crooked wood likely just creates extra work, which you obviously don't want, but the type of construction might also play a role in how much effort you should invest.
If you're building a house or a barn, the requirements for the final result will differ somewhat.
What does the lumberyard say if you come back with returns after a week or two?
In the right weather and with careless handling, it takes a few days at most to turn a good plank bad.
Using crooked wood likely just creates extra work, which you obviously don't want, but the type of construction might also play a role in how much effort you should invest.
If you're building a house or a barn, the requirements for the final result will differ somewhat.
What does the lumberyard say if you come back with returns after a week or two?
In the right weather and with careless handling, it takes a few days at most to turn a good plank bad.
It likely depends on how much they trust you and how important of a customer you are considered to be...Pumba said:
But I have bought lumber for an entire house (if that makes a difference?) and there hasn't been the slightest fuss. On one occasion, I called shortly after the delivery to inform them that there was some "junk" that would be claimed, but made the final claim much later, which was then accepted.
I believe there are many ways, just as there are many types of dealers and customers. An open dialogue, completely without being aggressive, I believe is beneficial. You could even consider discussing in advance how this problem, which is guaranteed to arise as soon as you start buying larger quantities, should be resolved.
I have called and started to delve into the property requirements for wood.
Let's see where it leads...
But there are a lot of property requirements, just look at the last page of this document which applies to facade panels of a certain quality class.
http://www.ltu.se/cms_fs/1.51372!/guide for trafasader.pdf
Let's see where it leads...
But there are a lot of property requirements, just look at the last page of this document which applies to facade panels of a certain quality class.
http://www.ltu.se/cms_fs/1.51372!/guide for trafasader.pdf
An incredibly informative document about everything related to wood...
http://www.npn.se/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/att_valja_tra.pdf
But unfortunately no measurements for allowed bending and twisting of beams...
edit:
And a bit OT but still related:
http://www.byggahus.se/forum/tak-vind/144681-krokigt-virke-till-takstolar-c24-hjalp.html
http://www.npn.se/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/att_valja_tra.pdf
But unfortunately no measurements for allowed bending and twisting of beams...
edit:
And a bit OT but still related:
http://www.byggahus.se/forum/tak-vind/144681-krokigt-virke-till-takstolar-c24-hjalp.html
Last edited:
It went pretty well after all, only one plank sorted out so far, those that were "inappropriately" banana-shaped we placed as sill and could easily screw into a "straight" position.