Short (perhaps simple) question, traditional house, rectangular, 4 walls and a heart wall in the middle, about 8x12.5m, opening in the heart wall about 4m.
Should the steel beam then be aligned (in this case an HEB180 (calculated utilization rate 32%, or whatever it is called)) with the top edge of the joists (45x220) or the bottom edge, or in the middle?
Pros and cons?
Need to order posts and beams for house construction, but hesitating on the measurement due to the aforementioned considerations.
See image:
What you see in the image is an end wall, and the floor structure extends over this, the steel beam goes 4m in from the gable and stops on a KKR 90x90x5; in the image, the beam I mean is aligned at the bottom edge with 45x220.
Should the steel beam then be aligned (in this case an HEB180 (calculated utilization rate 32%, or whatever it is called)) with the top edge of the joists (45x220) or the bottom edge, or in the middle?
Pros and cons?
Need to order posts and beams for house construction, but hesitating on the measurement due to the aforementioned considerations.
See image:
What you see in the image is an end wall, and the floor structure extends over this, the steel beam goes 4m in from the gable and stops on a KKR 90x90x5; in the image, the beam I mean is aligned at the bottom edge with 45x220.
Do as shown in the picture and fill the gap upwards with a plank of suitable thickness so you have support for the floor under the entire plank.
Ok, thanks for the info...
Nybyggarn: Not to belittle your answer, but I want to further develop your answer, why did you place the beam at the level of the underside 45x220 and not at the top?
Ola78's answer suggests that when you fill out/place a stud alongside (kind of splicing) the joist, you get support for the floor (chipboard). Is there any other reason?
Nybyggarn: Not to belittle your answer, but I want to further develop your answer, why did you place the beam at the level of the underside 45x220 and not at the top?
Ola78's answer suggests that when you fill out/place a stud alongside (kind of splicing) the joist, you get support for the floor (chipboard). Is there any other reason?
We had a designer who drew the joists for us, and he specified that it should be like in your picture. Now we have it a little differently because we have an old log house, the original beams are cut, and new 220x45 are nailed on the side of the log beams, but the principle is the same. We also have battens on the top as support for the floor. Additionally, we have metal straps (maybe called beam straps?) that bind the beams together on the underside of the beam and diagonally up on each beam. In a log house, the joists also lock the wall so that it cannot be pushed outwards, but in a frame structure, it might be possible that you don't need this function, but check that because I am unsure there.
The iron beam involves a certain amount of flexibility in the construction = movements, therefore there is reason to join the studs over the beam. There is 40mm available for this, by placing a 45X70, and notching this for the beam, and let these extend about 0.5 --meter in each direction on the studs.
Yep, I'm with you... taking the opportunity to ask another question within the same topic.
I don't know if it's called utilization rate or what it's called, but the beam is calculated with trusscon/roofcon to 32%, according to the designer he didn't want to go higher than that due to the risk of bounce feeling in the floor.
My question is then, what is normal to have for a utilization rate on such a beam. Should I size up more, e.g. HEB200?
I don't know if it's called utilization rate or what it's called, but the beam is calculated with trusscon/roofcon to 32%, according to the designer he didn't want to go higher than that due to the risk of bounce feeling in the floor.
My question is then, what is normal to have for a utilization rate on such a beam. Should I size up more, e.g. HEB200?
Yes, maybe it will be better, there is also a beam with thicker material. But the jobs I've been involved in, where a load-bearing wall has been removed to create a larger room, have not met the standard = floor deflection, which leads to cracks forming. Now our interventions have involved a box to cover the beam, and then it becomes moldings and paint that give way over time. But your ceiling below will be smooth, but still try to choose a ceiling material that can handle movements = panel, Huntonit, or similar, gypsum is not an option.