Started garage wobbles

[din granne]

Diagonals from each corner that have already been mentioned. I suggest 8, they should go from floor to "ceiling," meaning the upper part of the wall.

Then maybe diagonals in the ceiling are also needed.

Then you slap on boards at the end so it's as stable as a mackerel can.

 

[Anonymiserad 156139]

Just a thought, you mention the sill insulation is thick, is the frame itself bolted down into the slab or does it just stand on the sill insulation? Because I can't see any bolts in your pictures.

 

[din granne]

Just a thought, you mention the sill insulation is thick, is the actual frame bolted down to the slab or do they just stand on the sill insulation? Because I can't see any bolts in your pictures

It still shouldn't make the frame wobbly.

 

[Anonymiserad 156139]

It still shouldn't be able to make the frame wobbly.

I would probably say that a stable sill is as important as a stable top plate, I have no diagonal braces or diagonal metal straps in my garage and when it had a roof but no paneling, it was perfectly stable

 

[din granne]

I would probably say that a stable sill is just as important as a stable wall plate. I have no braces or diagonal metal bands in my garage, and when it had a roof but no paneling, it was completely stable.

Of course, it's important, but the frame shouldn't wobble whether it's fastened to the ground or not. It stands sufficiently stable in the beginning due to its own weight.

No, you don't have to have braces; you can solve it in another way as well.

 

[abiz]

Just a thought, you mention the sill insulation is thick, is the framework itself bolted down to the slab or are they just sitting on the sill insulation? Because I can't see any bolts in your pictures

Yes, I have drilled and driven in expansion nails 8x110 every meter so it should hold.

 

[Mats]

Anchor screw is the right thing for fastening perforated tape. If you drive them in at a slight angle, you can tighten them firmly. If you need to adjust the frame properly, a regular 2-ton ratchet strap is quite useful. Just go step by step until you're satisfied and then proceed with braces or perforated tape.

 

[Freddedan]

But don't tighten the straps too hard for king and country so you tilt the entire frame. Speaking from personal experience. Check all angles after the straps are in place.

 

[Boan]

Oh okay, so it's just something temporary?
Shouldn't the facade have the same effect when it comes on? But absolutely, I will do that until the facade is on.

put a plywood on the walls on the inside so it becomes stable

 

[Nissens]

I built my garage myself, it is 7x10 meters. You don't need to overdo it with strapping. I put simple nail battens (sparse) as braces on the inside, completed everything on the outside, and about 10 years later I insulated the inside for winter, and then I removed the braces. No strapping is needed.

 

[jonaserik]

I built my garage myself, it's 7x10 meters. You don't need to overwork with perforated tapes. I put simple wooden battens as braces on the inside, finished everything on the outside, and about 10 years later, I insulated the inside for winter, and then I removed the braces. No perforated tapes are needed.

It definitely holds, if the paneling is vertical then it’s probably 45X45 horizontal to attach to and then the whole package is secured

 

[Nissens]

It's clear that it holds, if the panel is vertical then it's probably 45X45 horizontal to attach to, and then the whole package is secured.

It doesn't have to be, and the panel doesn't resist twisting, only forces up and down. The braces themselves are enough to resist those forces. Later, when you put board material on the inside, they replace the braces.

By the way, why on earth do you have 1cm foam rubber under the sill? What's wrong with sill paper?

 

[Farbror Såg]

Hey, I'm in the middle of building a double garage, and when I went up to lay the roof decking, I noticed that the entire frame was swaying. Is this normal?
Even now, with all the roof decking in place, it still sways a bit. Will this be fixed with the facade or when it gets more weight from the tiles?

I'm a bit worried that I missed something I should have installed haha, I'm attaching some pictures so you can see how the frame is built.

By the way, I'm thinking the roof decking doesn't necessarily need to go all the way up to the ridge. The small gap of about 5-7cm that I have now can be covered with felt, then I'll put ridge board holders, a ridge board, and ridge insulation over it, so it feels unnecessary to take the time to make it perfect there, what do you think?

Edit: I assume the sill insulation, which is about 1 cm foam rubber, can make the whole thing a bit more wobbly?

It seems there isn't a single wind brace between the studs, so it's not surprising if it sways...

 

[abiz]

It doesn't have to be, and the panel does not resist twisting, only forces up and down.
The diagonal braces themselves are enough to withstand those forces. Later when you put sheet material on the inside, they replace the braces.

By the way, why on earth do you have 1cm foam rubber under the sill? What's wrong with sill paper?

That was the sill insulation that k-bygg sent with the delivery.

 

[Nissens]

It was the syllisolering that k-bygg sent with the delivery.

Aha, a bit curious about what it does that's better than syllpapp. 🙂