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A abiz said:
Yes, that's what it will have to be. I'm just wondering if I can place it on the inside but before the installation kit is on, what do you think about that?
The band is usually placed on the outside. You attach it from high up on the edge of the other side and wrap it around the knot and down diagonally to the middle of the beam at the bottom. I think it locks better. It only adds 1 mm, so you can ignore if it bothers the next layer. Before you receive yours, you should already tonight screw in some longer braces on all sides (make sure to use a plumb line first). I also find it a bit scary that the beams at the top are joined in the middle, but perhaps it's okay, I don't know.
 
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Roger Fundin and 4 others
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Here is a friggebod at Easter with temporary braces and permanent metal straps except on the side closest to the camera (because the strap ran out), so we custom-cut braces, where one is in place and the other is being measured.
 
  • A person constructing a wooden shed frame with temporary braces and permanent steel bands, one brace is being measured and adjusted in a forested area.
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Risarvaren and 4 others
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It should probably be added that the framework is not plumb at this stage. Using straps is not for me, they can stretch a few mm and then the framework swings. Regardless of what you do, put the braces on right away, it doesn't matter if they're in the right place right now. Just that they go diagonally and keep the framework in place. If a storm gust comes, everything will likely twist, and you'll have firewood.
 
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A abiz said:
Can you see anything obvious that I've missed?
There are no diagonal braces, neither in the walls nor in the roof trusses. There are different ways to implement that. Strange that you missed such a basic thing.
 
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J jonaserik said:
It should also be added that the frame is not plumb at the moment. Using straps isn't for me, as they can stretch a few mm and then the frame sways. No matter what you do, put up the braces immediately, it doesn't matter if they're in the right place right now. As long as they're diagonal and keep the frame in place. If a strong gust comes, everything might twist and you'll have firewood.
Yes, I was just outside putting up a lot of battens on the inside so it's really sturdy.

But the frame is straight and nice anyway 😄

I will get a lot of metal strips tomorrow.
 
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A abiz said:
Yes, I was just out putting up a lot of battens on the inside, so it became really sturdy.

But the frame is otherwise straight and nice anyway 😄

I will get a lot of steel strapping tomorrow.
Reasonably, the construction can't be straight and level everywhere right now. Make sure to get all lengths and diagonals right when you fixate with the straps. It will pay off later. It might be easier if you have a helper.
 
But you should have OSB and gypsum on the inside, it will brace more than the metal straps. Screw some OSB on the inside while you finish the outside, then you can remove one board at a time while you insulate. Protte
 
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prototypen prototypen said:
But you should have OSB and plaster on the inside, which will brace more than the metal bands.
Screw a few OSB on the inside while you finish the exterior, then you can remove one board at a time while you insulate.
Protte
Yes, I think so too. I also find it strange that I haven't seen anything at all about steel bands in any guide online.

For those wondering how on earth I could have missed it, it's probably because I'm not a carpenter but a layman. 👍
 
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If you are going to have installation storage, you can set the diagonal braces permanently and skip the straps. You might have problems getting the gable walls straight once you've installed the panel, but you'll notice that.
 
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A abiz said:
Yes, I think so too. I also find it strange that I haven't seen anything at all about steel bands in any guide online.

For those wondering how I could have missed it, it's probably because I'm not a carpenter but a layman. 👍
I've learned from my father-in-law and the wife's professional carpenter cousins. Diagonal bracing or perforated band is what you need. You want the frame to support itself even without OSB and exterior cladding. Those tension straps should be tightened like violin strings and lock surprisingly well. Diagonal bracing takes more time but is of course just as good.
 
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D datja said:
I have learned from my father-in-law and my wife's professional carpenter cousins. You should have diagonal braces or perforated band. You want the frame to support itself even without OSB and outer panel. Those tension bands should be tightened like violin strings and lock surprisingly well. Diagonal braces take more time but are of course just as good.
Should you just fasten it with a nail in the corner and then have someone help by pulling hard on the other end, is that enough?
 
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A abiz said:
Should you just fasten it with a nail in the corner and then get help from someone who pulls hard at the other end, is that enough?
You usually need to tighten it with the help of, for example, a screwdriver that you insert into a hole and brace with.
Ankarskruv is probably not wrong.
 
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Roger Fundin and 1 other
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Use screws and attach to each post along the wall (but take the posts last). Start at the top of the corner and then go to the middle of the bottom beam. There, you should tighten firmly and screw slightly outward so that the screwing spreads it further. Then screw straight a few screws and remove the tension screw last.
A abiz said:
A abiz said:
Should you just fasten it with a nail in the corner and get help from someone to pull hard on the other end, is that enough?
 
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D datja said:
Use screws and attach to each post along the wall. At the bottom, screw a bit outward at an angle so the screwing tightens further. Then screw a few screws straight and remove the tension screw last.
But arrange angles and distances before that with slasksträvor.
 
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Roger Fundin and 1 other
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Adjust the frame vertically and screw 2 OSB boards in each corner to make it stable.

The panel is not enough, over time it will slide and the house will slowly fall sideways.
 
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