Steel studs basement wall

[Gusten82]

Currently renovating the basement. Using steel studs for an air gap between the basement wall (concrete) and the new surface layer. For the best results, an air gap should be left at the top and bottom. If I use tracks on the ceiling and floor, it becomes a closed space. If I instead skip the tracks on the floor and ceiling, I can achieve a good airflow behind, but then the problem becomes fastening the vertical steel studs. Is it possible to glue steel studs to the concrete/basement wall? Which adhesive is recommended?

 

[Rickard.]

Hat profiles for roofs are not so bad in these situations.

 

[Gusten82]

Hat profiles for roofs are not so bad in these situations.

thanks! Do you have a link to hat profiles?
I already have metal studs so I would gladly use them. Is assembly glue a bad idea? (nice to avoid drilling/screwing into the concrete.)

 

[slacker]

Hat profiles for roofing aren't a bad idea in these situations.

What!? Or are you thinking of placing hat profiles/support battens on the wall horizontally (top, bottom, and maybe in the middle) to then attach the studs to these?! It's not such a bad idea when you think about wall ventilation....

Edit: This is what's meant by hat profile: https://www.hornbach.se/shop/Sekundarregel-NORGIPS-S25-85-3800mm/5509160/artikel-detaljer.html

 

[Rickard.]

One can position the profile vertically cc60 and just screw the panel material directly into them. This way, it becomes completely open both at the top and bottom if one is a bit clever with the baseboard and the ceiling molding.

 

[slacker]

You can position the profile vertically cc60 and simply screw the sheet material directly into them. Then it will be completely open both at the top and bottom if you're a bit clever with the skirting board and ceiling molding.

Aha! So that's what you're thinking - Not a bad idea either....

 

[Gusten82]

Thanks for the tips!
The secondary rule looks easier to attach with screws. It also only builds 25mm, which is another advantage.
However, it ends up with an awful lot of drill holes/screws in the basement wall, which feels so-so. Any tips regarding attaching the studs?
Ceiling height 2.10.

 

[lasseboy]

If you have old tiles or similar, glue a piece of tile every 45 cm where the rule applies and then glue U-channel to them. On the ceiling, do the same depending on what kind of ceiling you have, wood/concrete, etc. There will be a gap of 5-6 mm above and below. It should then ventilate around, and then you have a distance of 45 or 70 mm to the wall with air.

 

[Kris1]

Hat profiles for roofs are not so bad in these situations.

How does it work with insulation?

 

[Rickard.]

How does it work with insulation?

Not at all, insulation on the inside of a basement is generally not recommended anyway.

 

[Kris1]

Not at all, insulation on the inside of a basement is generally not recommended anyway.

I have understood that even though there are different opinions. So insulate the base from the outside. What board material on the inside?

 

[Kris1]

Currently again as I'm going to tear down a wall in the basement, but a wall inside the basement, not against an exterior wall. What sheet material should I use since I believe part of the wall was an opening and it's likely not been bricked up.

 

[Kris1]

You can set the profile vertically cc60 and just screw the board material directly into them. Then it will be completely open both at the top and bottom if you're a bit clever with the skirting board and cornice.

What do you think about ventilated facade battens, should be even better?

 

[Rickard.]

What do you think about ventilated facade battens, should be even better?

See no advantage, but it will probably work just as well. Facade battens are meant to be mounted horizontally without stopping ventilation, and it's not needed at all if you mount them vertically. They are likely to be noticeably more expensive too.

 

[Excel]

I myself fixed the steel studs with angle irons to the wall, using two per stud. Only insulation on top.

Then two layers of fiber-reinforced gypsum and then tiles.