The floor structure between the basement and the floor above doesn't seem completely "solid" - when walking past outside a bedroom, you can hear things moving inside the bedroom.
On top of the floor structure are chipboards covering the entire surface, and the interior walls stand on these, so it's the same chipboards you walk on outside the bedrooms as inside the bedrooms.
For various reasons, I've removed the ceiling and other things in the basement, so the floor structure is fully visible. The space measures 4.5 m in the direction of the beams, and the only thing besides the beams themselves are two small wooden pieces nailed crosswise between the beams, roughly in the middle of the beams (about 2.25 m from the beams' support).
The beams are spaced 40 cm apart center to center.
Can you make the floor more solid by nailing/screwing in studs here and there between the beams? If so, how closely should they be placed, and how "irregularly" should they be positioned?
It should also be noted that an additional floor structure will be added to the existing one - the floor will be raised in the living area - and I assume this will be placed perpendicular to the existing one (but perhaps on top of the floor boards?). This might solve the problem on its own?
On top of the floor structure are chipboards covering the entire surface, and the interior walls stand on these, so it's the same chipboards you walk on outside the bedrooms as inside the bedrooms.
For various reasons, I've removed the ceiling and other things in the basement, so the floor structure is fully visible. The space measures 4.5 m in the direction of the beams, and the only thing besides the beams themselves are two small wooden pieces nailed crosswise between the beams, roughly in the middle of the beams (about 2.25 m from the beams' support).
The beams are spaced 40 cm apart center to center.
Can you make the floor more solid by nailing/screwing in studs here and there between the beams? If so, how closely should they be placed, and how "irregularly" should they be positioned?
It should also be noted that an additional floor structure will be added to the existing one - the floor will be raised in the living area - and I assume this will be placed perpendicular to the existing one (but perhaps on top of the floor boards?). This might solve the problem on its own?
What are the dimensions of the beams?
this has nothing to do with the chipboard not being glued; the gluing is for creaking etc.
this feels like they have used too weak joists...
at this length they must be at least 2"9" with 2 cross braces in...
regards
estwing
this feels like they have used too weak joists...
at this length they must be at least 2"9" with 2 cross braces in...
regards
estwing
As I said, a guess, but I have been on inspection jobs where the chipboard wasn't glued and after a little movement here and there for various reasons, the screw holes have loosened a bit, and those living there have experienced it as the original poster wrote. That they under-dimensioned the floor structure in an old house didn't sound as likely to me.estwing said:
But sure, you also have it for the squeak.
Approximately 3"8" then, that should be enough if you had "esrwings" cross braces. What is the dimension of your new joist to raise the floor? If you lay a new joist on top of sufficient (I don't know what would be sufficient, but I would settle for 4") dimension, it should solve your problems.Prosit said:
Wobbly, bouncing floors have always been due to the joists in the houses I’ve worked on, even the creaking too actually, I don’t think your problems have to do with the subfloor.
Yes, I probably misunderstood Ts, I didn't think it was swaying or that the floor was rocking but more that it moves, i.e., not solid.Jan-Å said:
But as mentioned, the problem will be solved with a new beam structure on it.The Angry Carpenter did it from underneath, but I don't know if he screwed or nailed..Prosit said:Is it possible to do a good cross-bracing from underneath or do I have to remove the floorboards and nail/screw from above?
Speaking of which? Nail or screw?
one screws and glues... will not disappear anyway... but has the same tendency as you at home...
I attached a 2"7" on each side of the beam and glued + nailed at 2 points...
almost everything disappeared..
the thing is that it is too long with 4.5 m.... hence the flex...
need to have a supporting beam under or bigger beams....
regards
estwing
I attached a 2"7" on each side of the beam and glued + nailed at 2 points...
almost everything disappeared..
the thing is that it is too long with 4.5 m.... hence the flex...
need to have a supporting beam under or bigger beams....
regards
estwing
OK, but in combination with a new joist layer on top that runs perpendicular to the existing one? That should distribute the load well across multiple joists.
Speaking of additional joist layers, the existing floorboards can remain in place and then you lay the new joist layer on top? It will then be in the same length direction as the boards...
Speaking of additional joist layers, the existing floorboards can remain in place and then you lay the new joist layer on top? It will then be in the same length direction as the boards...
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I read on the träguiden that krysskolvning was an older method and that it was better to use glued crossbeams that are installed after the floor is laid, see here: http://www.traguiden.se/TGtemplates/popup1spalt.aspx?id=1252&contextPage=5955