Splice floor chipboard with or without tongue and groove?

[Bosse63]

Hello
I am going to start placing some tracked chipboards for waterborne underfloor heating. It is an old joist system that is leveled, but I don't have cc60, rather everything from 42cm to 59cm. The boards I am going to lay are tongue and groove and approved for laying with joints outside the joist. However, after reading a more detailed installation guide for other boards, I become concerned. The other boards are also approved for joining between joists, but the recommendation is to join on joists anyway, especially in areas with high load. The room I am going to lay in is a living room, which will involve relatively high load.

My concern now is whether it is better to cut the short sides clean, skip the tongue and groove, and instead have all joints supported by joists instead? The extra work doesn't matter much, and there will be practically no extra waste due to the room's dimensions.

 

[Stuff]

No, there are no problems with joining between the studs when it's rebated. Just make sure to stagger the joints into different sections so you don't get general joints.

 

[Bosse63]

Thank you so much for the reply! That's how construction companies do it, and that's the assembly instruction. My concern is probably based on the long-term perspective. Three kids jumping on the floor, guests with temporarily high load, etc. Small flexes that eventually make the joints a bit weakened. I want to minimize the risk of squeaking even in 10 years. Since I'm a DIYer, time efficiency is not the most important thing, but rather avoiding having to redo it in the future. This is a construction that should never change.
But as I said, even the long-term effects should be known by now ☺️

 

[Stuff]

Thank you very much for the answer! That's how construction firms do it and that's the assembly instructions. My concern is probably based on the longer perspective. Three children jumping on the floor, guests with temporary high load, etc. Small flex that eventually causes the joint to weaken a little. I want to minimize the risk of creaking even in 10 years. Since I'm a DIYer, time efficiency isn't the most important thing, but rather avoiding having to redo it in the future. This is a construction that should never be changed.
But as I said, even the long-term effects should be known by now ☺️

Classic case of a DIYer overworking things. You're definitely not alone in that
You're probably also going to have an overlay (perhaps parquet?) which also distributes the load.

 

[Bosse63]

Haha, that's exactly how it is!
I'm following instructions and feel more secure with the feedback you've given! 👍

 

[AG A]

Thank you very much for the response! That's how construction companies do it and that's the installation instruction. My concern is probably about the longer term. Three kids jumping on the floor, guests with temporarily high loads, etc. Small flexes that eventually make the joint a bit weakened. I want to minimize the risk of creaking even in 10 years. Since I'm a DIY enthusiast, time efficiency is not the most important thing, but rather to avoid having to redo it in the future. This is a construction that should never change.
But as I said, even the long-term effects should be known by now ☺️

But why one or the other? Why not both...? I mean, just add an additional joist under the tongued joint. Alternatively, cut the side of the chipboard so the tongue lands on a joist.

 

[Stuff]

But why one or the other? Why not both...? I mean, just add another beam under the tongued joint. Alternatively, trim the side of the particleboard so that the tongue lands on a beam.

That can be done, but it becomes a bit overkill. Because it's not needed, according to the manufacturer.
The original poster has varying distances between the beams, which makes it even more complicated.
In a perfect situation, you have cc600 and boards that are 1800 or 2400. So, you almost always hit a beam.

 

[Bosse63]

But why one or the other? Why not both...? I mean just add another beam under the tongue and groove joint. Alternatively, cut on the side of the particle board so that the tongue lands on a beam.

Hi
Thanks for the input! Adding more beams would have been the best, of course, but it's an idea that I've set aside. I don't have cross timbers to attach at suitable locations, which would mean too extensive work with insulation and piping that is already done.

 

[z_bumbi]

To a much lesser extent, I placed a strip of floor chipboard under the seam during a repair. It becomes overworked if you have tongue-and-groove boards, but if you know where the piano or bookshelf will be or where the landings from the trapeze will be and have some waste, it's not much extra work.

 

[Bo arnold]

A glued joint should be as strong as a whole board max cc 60 should be enough