Sparks hole saw tiles

[frihopper]

Hello!

I'm drilling a hole in the bathroom wall for ventilation. When I've drilled a couple of millimeters into the tile with the hole saw, it starts sparking. I'm not quite sure if I should continue. Is it supposed to be like this? I've tried using lower RPMs on the drill, but then the hole saw starts wobbling, possibly due to the low speed.

Is it supposed to be like this? What am I doing wrong?

I'm using a PRO-FIT Hole Saw 105 mm on regular tiles.

https://www.hornbach.se/shop/PRO-FIT-Halsag-HM-105mm/8783839/artikel-detaljer.html

 

[GoForIt]

Is the hole saw really intended for tiles?

The ones I've used have been carbide-tipped and should be run at low speed.

 

[frihopper]

Is that hole saw really intended for tiles?

The ones I've used have been carbide coated and should be run at low speed.

There is a tile on the product's label.

Here is from another page:
https://www.toolab.se/produkt/Pro-Fit-halsag-HM-105-mm

Great advantages when using the "Drill & Drop" system together with hole saws "Pro-Fit Multi Purpose"

• Hole saws with carbide tips can be used in all types of wood, plaster, lightweight concrete, brick, as well as all types of ceramic materials up to a hardness of 6.

Is it possible that this tile is too hard?

 

[FDT]

Sorry you bought it? This type of hole saw worked great on hard tiles mounted in my cheap angle grinder.

 

[Jörgen Ö]

The most common/best hole saws for ceramic require water and low speeds, I have never come across a hole saw for ceramic that should operate at high speeds without water. The biggest problem is usually getting through the enamel, it might be that your hole saw is already worn out, which is why it starts to spark.

 

[FDT]

The most common/best hole saws for ceramic require water and low speeds, I've never encountered a hole saw for ceramic that should run at high speeds without water.
The biggest problem is usually getting through the enamel, it might be that your hole saw is already finished, which is why it starts to spark.

See my post. Really high speed on an angle grinder and no splashing with water..

 

[frihopper]

Thanks for the tips, everyone! I got through in the end. I drilled in stages at the lowest speed I could and sprayed water on the wall to prevent sparks from reaching the insulation and other things when I got through. It made a nice hole though!

I don't really recommend this hole saw that I bought, for future readers. Moreover, it cost 600 kr with the center drill.. =).

 

[frihopper]

See my post. Really high RPM on an angle grinder and no splashing with water..

Thank you! Unfortunately, the size I needed, 105 mm, wasn't available.

 

[twoody]

This hole saw is not meant for tiles, it can cut wood but is quite useless there too.

 

[frihopper]

This hole saw is not meant for tile, it can cut through wood but is quite useless there as well.

Yeah, I noticed that. When I got through the tile, there was a sheet and then wood. It almost burned the wood, so I switched to another wood hole saw instead.

But what's it good for then? It's a bit strange marketing to say it's for wood AND tile as well as other materials when it's not good for at least wood or tile.

 

[twoody]

The most common/best hole saws for ceramics require water and low speeds; I have never encountered a hole saw for ceramics that should operate at high speeds without water. The biggest problem is usually getting through the enamel; it could be that your hole saw is already worn out, which is why it's starting to spark.

This product is really good for hard clinker tiles and doesn't involve any water mess.
Tebo granito dry, unfortunately, they are ridiculously expensive.

 

[Dan_Johansson]

Yes, I noticed that. When I went through the tile, there was a board and then wood. It almost burned the wood, so I switched to another wood holesaw instead.

But what's it good for then? It's a bit of strange marketing to say that it's for wood AND tile as well as other materials when it's not good for at least wood or tile.

Well, in your link it says; "Wood, Plastic-ALT., Laminate, Plaster, Lightweight concrete, Acrylic" ...

 

[Martin Berggren]

Well, in your link it says; "Wood, Plastic-ALT., Laminate, Plaster, Lightweight Concrete, Acrylic" ...

says on other pages:

DESCRIPTION
A perfect hole saw for making holes in most materials. Cuts more than 10 times faster than traditional hole saws and has unparalleled longevity. Cuts into: wood, chipboard, MDF boards, laminate, plastic, plaster, lightweight concrete, leca, fiberglass, and tiles and stone materials up to a hardness of 6.

https://bolist.se/produkt/halsag-integ-adap-pro-fit-hm-2/?article=8714757011678

 

[twoody]

Yes, I noticed that. When I got through the tile, there was a board and then wood. It almost burned the wood, so I switched to another wood hole saw instead.

But what's it good for then? A bit weird marketing to write that it's for wood AND tile and other materials when it's not good for either wood or tile.

No, very misleading marketing on that product.
It works quite well for Leca and lightweight concrete blocks.

 

[Dan_Johansson]

found on other pages:

DESCRIPTION
A perfect hole saw for making holes in most materials. Cuts more than 10 times faster than traditional hole saws and has an unmatched lifespan. Cuts through: wood, chipboard, MDF, laminate, plastic, plaster, lightweight concrete, leca, fiberglass, and tiles and stone materials up to a hardness of 6.

[link]

Bolist? In my area, it was "COOP Bygg".. There, no one knew anything about anything. The only good thing about them was that they kept changing their inventory and sold the old stuff at half price...